Jayson Munro
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
All paint systems are different,basf is famous for having tri stage formulas for colors that are just a 2 stage.Now don’t get confused here but some systems will have a 2 stage formula for a 3 stage to do jambs etc but the color match will suffer.Now for example the new camaro synergy green and wa301n that you are describing are a 2 stage formula in sikkens and they match perfectly.
It has been many years since I used that primer but I think there might be a slower hardener for it.Basically it was drying to fast,you could have added some slow or extra slow reducer or used a bigger tip and dropped your pressure down to about 25 psi,you don’t need any more that 30psi for primer.
11 feet is not wide enough,your typical booth is 14w x 26 L 9 ft high.Not sure where you are but it is always cheaper to buy an existing used booth(eg.used crossflows are plentiful in my area for $2000 and up)by the time you buy the tubeaxil fans,lights and possibly an air makeup it is just not cost effective.Your average pit is usually 3 ft wide by 22 feet long,3.5ft deep.The pit will then branch off for another 10-15 ft towards the exhaust stack.
I think you might be better off making a crossflow or just buying one,a good tubeaxil fan is in the neighborhood of $1500…..Pretty tough to go wrong with norton/carbo sandpaper,cheap paper is not a bargain as you will use twice at much so it costs more in the long run.Using a good sandpaper and change it often is the key to cutting filler efficiently.For $75 I would scoop the sander if it works.
The way to knock down filler fast is with good sharp paper and don’t be afraid to change it often.Back in the old days it was very common to do a 12-16hr repair on a boxside or a quarter.The only way to do it fast was to use either a 8″ mud hog like Ben suggested or the inline sander.Your first coat should be just to get the shape and knock it down fast with either 40-80 depending on filler brand,then once you have it close SKIM the entire area.You can either knock it down to get it close with a machine and then finish it off by a hand block(only way to get it flat and straight)With collision repair you want to get it nice so you only have to prime it once.With restos you are usually going to prime it and block it twice so even if you finish you body work in 100 it will be easier to keep straight,the finer you go the wavier your bodywork will get.I was a diehard platinum filler guy for many years but have since started using rage ultra,its the easiest sanding filler I have found in 25 years.
The way I do a resto is to finish bodywork in 80 to 120 apply epoxy and either 2k urethane primer or a spray poly,then block with 150-180,reprime block with 400,seal and paint.Again collision repairs are finished finer so you only prime once for production.
I hate the hutchins hustler,its too top heavy and slow due to a short stroke.The best inline is the original atcoa viking,if you can find one,very smooth and fast,bullet proof.
http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=mcafee&p=atcoa+viking
[URL=http://s580.photobucket.com/user/jaysonm1969/media/SSPX0006_zps95b5e41b.jpg.html]
[IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/SSPX0006_zps95b5e41b.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s580.photobucket.com/user/jaysonm1969/media/SSPX0008_zps25032d2b.jpg.html][IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/SSPX0008_zps25032d2b.jpg[/IMG][/URL]Keep in mind if you have gravel roads in your area or a tough environment sanding and etch will not last.
Unfortunately the only way to have a chance for it to last is to sand blast them,epoxy and paint.Just sanding them is a redo waiting to happen.Getting one of these and a couple bags of sand is much cheaper than a redo http://www.harborfreight.com/40-lb-pressurized-abrasive-blaster-68992.html Good luck
Looks good Nexy :clappy
[quote=”Neat” post=32233]
3 coats of clear, 600 wet, and another three coats of clear yields good results for me; but it has never produced the deep look that I’m hoping to achieve. Any other tips?[/quote]
2 things here,you are either doing it wrong or using cheap materials…….
NEVER put basecoat in your clear,that is asking for trouble.If its a solid color 2 coats of single stage let cure for a couple of days wetsand it with 600 to make it flat and apply 2-3 coats of clear,looks amazing on black.As far as bc/cc you could sand and re-clear then cut and buff and it will look very deep.As long as you are using quality materials its not that hard.
We may have,we had to buy a SEC 230 toner for it.If I remember right it was just a charcoal metallic caddy nothing special and was a breeze.
[quote=”Ben” post=32195]I wouldn’t be surprised if the entire thing eventually peels. The Nason base needs the hardener. Without it, the base will only gel up and gets to be like latex paint.[/quote]
I agree with ben,sounds like a disaster eventually :unsure:
[quote=”Ben” post=32195]I wouldn’t be surprised if the entire thing eventually peels. The Nason base needs the hardener. Without it, the base will only gel up and gets to be like latex paint.[/quote
I agree with ben,sounds like a disaster is immenient :unsure:[quote=”overtimeautobody” post=32161]just did another 1 w, the optima 30 psi w/glasurit 460 clear ,looking good, i am still likeing the sagola 4400 extreme for the high solid clears,[/quote]
Blasphemy :pCheck the tds sheets they are available online :readthis: We used a crapload of HS+ for many years at our shop.We used autocryl rapid hardener,rapid production standard activators with a sata rp 1.4 at 30-32 psi wide open settings.The rapid hardener worked good for us instead of standard hardener as it is slow drying.We still sprayed completes with the rapid and standard and their is a slower activator but can’t remember the name.Also we baked it at 140F for 37 mins.Any othr questions just ask.