Jayson Munro
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PPG dp50LV is pretty good as is a low voc primer from sikkens(forget the name right now :headsmack: ) You could also into sikkens BTLV system for some good epoxy,dupont corlar 921S in the imron system is also very good,2:1 mix and 30 min flash.
Do a spray out and tint to blend,not butt match 😉 Thats about your only option,I also spray that color regularly and have no issues with sikkens autowave.
But I read it on a cheesy forum so it must be true :readthis:
:rofl :rofl :roflI can think of one good reason,parts availability and its very hard to find somebody who sells geo walcom guns on this side of the pond.
[quote=”pierceg” post=31641]Heh, okay, not the kind of replies I was expecting. Please can you refrain from tell me to go buy a used spray booth or lease one, for reasons I don’t feel the need to get into.
Let’s help me with designing this new kind of spray booth! Thank you.[/quote]
All I was trying to do was let you know realisticly by the time you buy all your materials to make a homemade booth you could have easily bought a used cross flow.A proper tubeaxil fan alone is in the neighborhood of $800-$1000 plus the lights ducting etc.Good luck with your booth and there are plenty of other sites that can show you how to build a homemade booth.Well everybody is different but you can’t blame a gun for dirty jobs due to increased air pressure.If that was true nobody would have been able to get a clean job with the old conventional guns that operate at 50+psi.I am from that era of high pressure guns and did not have problems getting a clean job,the 10 psi difference between an rp and lph is minimal :pcorn:
I use a w-400 once and awhile and find it slow ,couldn’t imagine using an LPH but if it works for ya thats all that matters.One last thing,I would DEFINATELY demo a gun before I dropped $600 on a gun I have never used.You might also want to demo a 4000RP.Keep in mind tip size can change a gun and not all guns spray the same,a 1.3 in an iwata is like a 1.2 in a sata for example.
79 olds is right,You can’t make a homemade booth on the cheap that will actually work.$ for $ you could buy a used crossflow for $1500 -$3500 and you are good to go.If you add up what a good tubeaxil fan and all the lights you would already be past that figure.
Do you have a picture of the trouble area????
Wow that looks pretty slow,it could definately be faster if he cut the distance in half,or just use an RP :pcorn:
IMO I think you need to suck it up and realize its his show and play by his game,nothing is going to change while he is there.With that being said you would be better off to look for a good shop to work at and stay there until you do.After hearing your complaints about the place I would just move on.
You need to meet with management and ask who is running the show,the old guy or the manager?Tell him your concerns and ask if something can be done so it is fair for everyone,if he is running the show deal with it or maybe its time to move on to a better run shop.
Ben gave you excellent advice the only thing I would change is the epoxy and 2k.Just spray poly the snot out of it and finish up with 2k,it works better on fiberglass repairs where the gelcoat is damaged or not there.
yes it will work fine.A da is the old school sander that you can lock the weight on the bottom and it will be like a grinder,put the weight back and its an orbital sander.A palm sander is like a dynabrade.
You need to stop worrying about him and just do your job.A certification course would pretty much end all the BS,just do your own thing and tell him to stay in his stall and keep his piehole shut.Nothing worse that somebody who says “I have been doing it this way forever bla blah blah” but in the end its still wrong :pcorn: 500 is a good grit,you can base over that and not have issues,Norton rotolo foam backed paper works great for prepping blend panels or 800 on a palm sander(a DA or dual action sander)should only be used for rough sanding or stripping.