Jayson Munro

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  • April 9, 2013 at 5:39 am #42706

    Contact your ppg 1-800 tech line and ask about Standard operating procedures for refinishing new bumpers.They can probably point you in the right direction for literature to prove it.Basic operations like this are covered in a certification course.

    April 9, 2013 at 5:04 am #42703

    Ok a new bumper primed or bare plastic MUST be sealed,pretty sure that was mentioned before.How long have you worked with the old guy a couple of months?It can take awhile before comebacks start,sometimes up to a a year :whistle:

    April 8, 2013 at 6:27 am #42687

    [quote=”gtome” post=31528] But since Im spraying with a Sagola, I guess I may as well since its such a joke of a gun! :rofl[/quote]
    Now your learning 😉

    April 8, 2013 at 6:18 am #42685

    All you need to know is zerorust,picklex,base right over 320-400,I mean if it works on quarter million restos it should work on collision :rofl

    April 8, 2013 at 5:44 am #42680

    Lots of people have tried to help you,but you never seem to listen,or argue and do what you want anyway,just sayin :whistle:

    April 5, 2013 at 2:09 am #42604

    Utech 4.0 works better with a 1.4,its not really a HS clear.Your 1.3 is overatomizing the material.Secondly Mix it 4parts clear and 1 part hardener just like your supposed to.For a good sized bumper you will use a potful or just a touch over,it doesn’t go as far as other HS clears.

    April 5, 2013 at 1:55 am #42601

    Awesome job Nick :cheers Beautiful prep and installation 😉

    April 3, 2013 at 6:10 am #42562

    Norton plastic works awesome,and you get more on the roll than carbo for the same money 😉

    April 1, 2013 at 6:13 am #42554

    You know I went back and gave that stuff another try after you reccomended it.It really wasn’t too bad but would become very brittle after a bake cycle and would splinter when trying to unmask.If the bodymen mask and prime it would work great out in the shop for priming duties.The carbo new and improved premium tan made in usa tape(not the american co branded tape) seems to work pretty good as does the american blue as long as you unmask it right away.

    March 30, 2013 at 5:42 am #42517

    I have done it both ways and honestly can’t tell a difference,I can get a consistent clean job either way :stoned

    March 30, 2013 at 2:15 am #42506

    I like icar for proper structural and sectioning procedures that follow oem standards,how many of us have seen sub standard repairs over the years?Lets face it there are many techs who do things in a shop that don’t know how to do it properly,or they just don’t know better or “I have been doing this for years and never had a problem”

    March 29, 2013 at 6:25 am #42492

    [quote=”lild” post=31339] Apperantly this is a problem across the brands. Except sikkens :clappy[/quote]

    :stoned :stoned

    March 29, 2013 at 5:48 am #42487

    sadly yes :stoned

    March 29, 2013 at 5:10 am #42485

    Word of caution,don’t use the sem color horizons.We did a truck for one of the young guys at work with a red sem candy(shovelhead red?) and within 2 years it faded and turned pink and we had to redo it.

    March 29, 2013 at 4:31 am #42481

    standard variant was base clear,been about 6-8 months since I had to spray it.I will look again whe I go back to work,but I don’t recall a 3 stage field variant,we were not on the new software at that time either.

Viewing 15 posts - 361 through 375 (of 1,510 total)