Jayson Munro
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dupont can be tough,this wont help you very much but I have done that color 3-4 times in sikkens autowave and it matches.In sikkens its not a tristage and standard matches very well.
maybe try to leave some of the yellow toner,or the one with a yellow flip,or add more of a toner with violet to kill the yellow.stay within the formula for tinting 😉I have found the devilbiss digital gauge to work pretty good and be pretty accurate.I have them on my teknas and have found them to perform very well with base.
Funny you mention that Ryan 😛 At a paint course I went to the instructor made us set the air pressure by ear and then let us look at the gauge to see what it was.The pressures were anywhere from 15-50psi….not even close to being accurate.The point was your ears aren’t as accurate as a gauge.
Thanks for the info Ryan,I did not know about slurry mix.
The very first thing you need to do is check the ground coat on the vehicle,there are places that have no midcoat,under hood,trunk under the rocker garnish moldings etc.Now if you need to do any tinting STICK to the formula for the tinters,just don’t grab something off the shelf and wing it,99.9% of the time the answer is in the formula for the right tinter to adjust the color.For doing a spot in or repalcing a couple of panels there a a couple things you can do to make your life easier but I will leave that for now.Always tint to blend,not for a butt match.
The only way you will get a formula for the basf chip in utech is “IF” it is big enough to get a camera shot with an akzo camera so it can give you a formula or color map location.The only other option is to look at the akzo color map book and find something close,there will be no cross reference for another companies variant decks.
Farecla is very good,use g4 or g3 for heavy compounding with the farecla real lambs wool pad,finish off with g10 and the farecla foam pad.Pretty simple and easy to use.
Just use your regular clear,you don’t need flex additive by the time the light flexes it will be broken anyway.Not all flex additives are the same some disappear very soon after curing.
IMO opinion if your doing a show car or they want it perfect I add it into the price in the end.That way he doesn’t know that you are charging x # $ for a cut and buff and whatever you need to do a deatail job on it.There are limits to what you should do for free IMO.
As far as upkeep I would consider that maintenance,you not going to polish the car for free for the rest of its life.I could see a little gratuity here and there but not steady up keep.
Adpro is a good idea but as long as the light is sanded good with 600-800 and gray scuff pad the edges you will have a mechanical bond.I have done dozens of sets of headlights and smoked many tail lights and have never used adpro with 0 comebacks.If you still need an adpro sikkens p.o. would work for you.
Well that is a good idea and definately handy to have access to a booth.I would still urge you to get into another shop just to get some experience in the day to day operations of a good shop,the experience would help you immensely.Keep doing your stuff on the side as well.
X3 on the uniram :rock
Is this a serious question :stoned
Great gun back in the day,very old school.You can still buy them new.Thanks for finding out about the air cap,I didn’t know that.
https://www.sata.com/index.php?id=1127&L=1big difference in dropping your pressure a few psi to duplicate factory texture vs 15psi.What I meant was what does your gun manufacturer suggest for pressure?oh wait you don’t even know what you have :deadhorse I can back up what I say with experience…..