Jayson Munro
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X2 on the tekna(compliant cap) for solvent or water,I also liked an rp or nr2000 for solvent also.2000 and 4000 rp’s for clear also….
Nice job well done :cheers
Welcome to the site… :spraywelc: :cheers
The devilbiss digital gauge works pretty good and reasonably priced,I have been using a few of them for a couple of years on my teknas.Some guys have also used the princess auto/harbour freight digital but I haven’t.The sata and devilbiss regular gauges work well also,I never was a big fan of digital guns or the adam gauge.
[quote=”ARTSPRAY” post=30512]increasing the distance can create mottling [/quote]
This is accurate only IF you are using too fast of a reducer for the temp that you are spraying in.In a spraybooth environment with good airflow and heat slow and extra slow works best and flashtime is the same as a fast reducer.Only icrease your distance on your last coat.Twice the distance is alot 4-8″ is fine for coverage coats and 8-10 is good for a drop if your system needs it.Increasing distance on your last coat, proper reducer for the temp,make sure you gun is clean and operating properly.Pretty simple really….dry spray should not be an issue as long as you watch the paint going on the panel.
Increase your distance on your last coat and spray medium wet coats,too dry and it will cause adhession issues and feel like a piece of 40grit sandpaper when you go to tack it off …..
We use the guns that come in the upol raptor bedliner kits for free or a shutz gun is about $30.Only bad thing is it takes an hr to dry but if you manage your time right you can do it before it hits the booth,no biggie.
Sikkens OTO Bodycoat,I have been using this product for 25 years.
http://dreamcoatkenya.com/English/6.13_OTO_Bodycoat.pdfAwesome job John your almost there :cheers
Thanks for the honest comparison Ben,I am always interested in reviews of other systems good or bad. :cheers
Nice to meet you and welcome to the site :cheers
Interesting….I never would have thought about painting a car with it.Too bad its air dry and not catalysed to speed up dry times.
It is pretty simple,if you guys are a highend resto/collision shop with a paint system YOU and the OLDGUY are required to be certified by your paint company for a warranty.I am shocked that a rep has not been in to talk to you guys,you should have a waranty in place and if you don’t follow standard operating procedrures how can they offer a warranty :deadhorse People say all the time I have done it like this for years with no problems :wak Honestly how do you know have you seen the vehicles after 5-10-20 years?If you base over ecoat and your roads are good sure you can get away with it,but travel gravel roads or be in the snow belt your new parts will be peppered with rock chips and peeling in 3 months.
Talk to your rep about an application course,you will be amazed what you will learn.Ask your boss about what kind of warranty your shop has in place(if any)It sounds like everybody in your shop needs to get on the same page.Maybe thats why the old guy is so fast due to cutting corners :huh:
It works pretty good for plier handles,sticks good and seems to last.Not really sure what else you could do with it though.It took a few applications to get the thickness I wanted and it was simple to use.