Jayson Munro
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I’m not sure,I would contact your techline or tech rep to find out.I find the extraslow activator is the least aggressive with colorbuild plus 250 and will prevent wrinkling or checking.
Ok thanks for the info and we have the same recommendation about our sealer.The best way is to strip it but sikkens did come out with a waterborne sealer for aftermarket covers that works pretty good.Aftermarket covers are a pain in the ass……
Good to know it works that way with Rm.I have seen other systems where adpro can cause the aftermarket primer to lift,thats why I asked.
Why would you need adhesion promoter on a primed surface? Raw plastic I get it, just asking
I also agree on taking off the primer for aftermarket bumpers,oem I leave on.So since its a pain to take off the primer I give it a light scuff with the 3m thin scothbite pads (red or gray depending on the bumper) then a light coat of sikkens cbp 250 sealer mixed with extra slow activator as it is less likely to wrinkle,base then clear.Bare plastic gets prepped the same,sikkens po,sealer base clear.I hate to do it but alot of times on the directions of AM bumpers they suggest to base right on top of the primer if you prep it like they want it.It seems no matter what you do you always get the odd peeler.
No,I did it in autowave ,I broke the golden rule and had the truck in the booth and adjusted it on the fly while doing a sprayout card and spraying the truck at the same time.Like I said I did not want to take the extra time to do a camera shot/sprayout/possible correction camera shot to get the color right after doing a sprayout of the one and only forumula I had.I wish we did have autobase plus,its easier to tint vs autowave that is a completely different color in the cup vs when it dries :stoned
Yes we have one but I did not have the time to use it and do sprayouts.I had to make the adjustments on the fly to get it done and it looks fine.The truck is still at the shop so I plan to take a camera shot/sprayout and possibly do the correction shot of the sprayout if need be.I work at a large shop in truck country so it is just a matter of time before I have to do it again.
Well thanks,I just figured it was so new that there isn’t much feedback yet.That is a great idea of sending in a sample,I haven’t done that in a long time but this color needs a variant or the standard re-formulated for sure.I had to go outside of the formula to get this one close but now I know what I’m up against next time :stoned
There is a teflon seal underneath the control knob or you can just change the fan control assembly.Pretty simple fix,and have a look at the parts breakdown,it is available online.
Yeah thanks,Im in Canada so if I can’t find the stuff locally it won’t be worth it.I can just imagine what my supplier would want for a repalcement bulb from 3m :stoned
I find this whole idea very interesting and am tempted to make one just for fun.I can get the drill at the local walmart for cheap.So what about the connector/socket to plug the light in and where can I find the bulb?Does it have to be a solux or can I find a true daylight bulb at home depot or other place???Thanks
Happy New Year everyone :cheers
It really depends what the weather is doing where a guy lives.In the summer months the shop is warm and flash time is minimal.In the winter even though the shop is warm I like to put the infrared light on the panel to get the metal temps up before I prime,then after I apply a coat put the light back on.I keep doing it this way for each coat until I am finished,it really cuts down on time and shrinkage.If a person is careful with distance you won’t have to worry about possible blistering and solvent pop.Nice gentle heat is all you need.
Cool glad I could help :cheers Depending on what materials you use a 1.4 might work also.The 4000’s don’t put out as much material as the older versions so a 1.4 might just work for ya if you can handle a 1.6.
Looks like a fun project,nice work Blov :cheers