Jayson Munro
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All this talk on primer guns got me thinking about some of the old primer guns I have and what we used at the shop for a couple of decades.The old sikkens guys will remember them as thats what was recomended with the old sikkens yellow 3+1(it would build like a poly surfacer :p ).The name of the company was called eminent made in holland, and they are tough as nails,4 of these guns were used everyday by 12 bodymen for over 20 years and they are just now wearing out.I really like the sata primer guns but have never used one,sadly the guys we have now would just wreck them,not like the old guys who would actually take care of them.I get a kick out of guys saying it will put the primer on like glass,really?? who cares you are going to sand it anyway :wak :rofl :rofl
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[IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/SSPX0053_zps14967437.jpg[/IMG]Yeah we were given a sleeve of 3/4 and 1 1/2 inch to try,it was ok except really thin.Maybe it was old tape but it seemed to splinter quite a bit.
[quote=”ding” post=29596]Like it Jay. How is the American Blue working out?[/quote]
We have had it at the shop for a couple of years.It can take a bake cycle and if you unmask it reasonable soon its not bad.It can splinter off the roll like all american tape,corners not bad,tears off pretty easy.It doesn’t leave as sharp a line as pg27 but its liveable.I prefer the old norton tape from a few years ago or the original beige 3m 233,but the blue american is cheap.[quote=”gtome” post=29571][quote=”Jayson M” post=29520]You bet utech 3.5(voc restricts 3.8 :blush: ) I use a first gen sata rp 1.4 30-33psi wide open fan and materials,75% overlap 3-4 inches away form the panel.We spray a ton of utech single stage and polybase.[/quote]
Dang! With those settings and distance, you must have to really be hauling ass to keep the material off the floor![/quote]
Yes I like to paint fast satas are where its at for speed and overall atomization.The sagola could not keep up and found it very slow.[quote=”Matrix Paint Systems” post=29590]:teach This fellas is how ya make it work. Props man :cheers[/quote]
X2…. WOW Andy that is pretty impressive :clappy :clappy
Here are a few more from today,once again just regular jobs.
2 tone on a 2011 box
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Volvo collision spot in
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Ford f-150
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[IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/SSPX0050_zpsbeecbf37.jpg[/IMG]not sure why anyone would,you can’t get parts for them and there made in china :sick:
Yes when it dries it disappears,most times when you mix up a color its not even close to what it is supposed to be.I have been painting since the 80’s if I can get used to the changes anybody can 😉
I always knew you were a flamer :rofl :rofl Looks good man :cheers
Yeah that was just the 2nd coat,the 3rd coat is when the real blend happens.When you do your 3rd coat it is called a drop coat or orientation coat.This means you drop the pressure 6-7 psi and increase your distance 14-18 inches from the panel and use a 50% overlap and kick out on the blend panel while keeping the trigger pulled for a smooth transition.I took those pics so the guys who don’t use waterborne can see how goofy it looks.
yeah we have a bunch of stands for painting parts inside and out,just depends on the day and job.Most of these guys want to hang parts in an hr and 200 is fast for that.
:welc
Yeah my bosses dad likes to hack stuff like that up all the time,we have about 6 of them.He just finished giving our mixing room an overhaul :wak Everyone in the shop including the family was ready to chip in for a ticket to pheonix for him :clappy
Here are a couple more from today.
2012 gmc
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F-350 boxside… and some more utech 200 single stage in some jambs on hyundai parts
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[IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/SSPX0039_zpsd069c06d.jpg[/IMG]An nr2000 with a regular tip would be fine for solvent base as would a tekna or rp.