Jayson Munro
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
You bet utech 3.5(voc restricts 3.8 :blush: ) I use a first gen sata rp 1.4 30-33psi wide open fan and materials,75% overlap 3-4 inches away form the panel.We spray a ton of utech single stage and polybase.
Why don’t you just use your regular clear with a fast mix and help it out with some accelerator.If you are careful depending on brand a half ounce per sprayable quart will imrove out of dust and spray times,just don’t get to greedy 😛
Looks good :rock
Its just a habit I got into and started doing it.Not every job but definately the ones I care about,it seems to help.
Here are a few more shots from today,once again nothing fancy just regular day stuff.
Truck from yesterday,this is a customer pay otherwise we would have removed the box.
[IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/SSPX0025_zps8421e563.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/SSPX0026_zpsf3d2bad6.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/SSPX0027_zps3a70bb72.jpg[/IMG]
This old international was the other painters project,single stage red on day 1
Day 2 was the white and silver stripes in bc/cc,then the flat black on the hood.
[IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/SSPX0028_zpsed5d132d.jpg[/IMG]
Tomorrows project is this 2012 gmc wa636R,new hood, fender,blend door and other fender.I did the parts this aft.[IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/SSPX0029_zps2b8eebf6.jpg[/IMG]
For guys who wonder about keeping things clean mask off your engine compartment,it makes a difference 😉
[IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/SSPX0030_zps1e434bce.jpg[/IMG]Just regular old 250 😉
I would agree with that,just a slight learning curve for us when we went from solvent to wave.It is definately user friendly 😉
We have been a sikkens shop since 87 and using autowave for the last 4 years.We are very happy with it and the color match is very good,no issues whatsoever.
For anything that needs a colormatch, yes.
Doing a jamb spot in and edging a door with some utech 200 single stage.
[IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/SSPX0020_zps9de629a0.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/SSPX0021_zpsa297e13b.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/SSPX0022_zps2befde65.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/SSPX0024_zpsef11c747.jpg[/IMG]That sucks 5L how come your using that stuff anyway???
I never said use a block,just a soft flexible hand pad that you can wrap your sand paper around.I have done many sand and reclears on muscle cars etc and can see a slight difference myself but to each his own.You guys grade your paper differently than we do in my country p800 =400,so it can be confusing to some people.
Are you located in Canada?
Old school way is to sand it flat with a sanding pad with some 600 wet.If you are careful an interface pad and 600 on an orbital will work also,just won’t be as flat,pretty damn close and it will save you hrs.I usually just do 2 coats with a HS clear first round.For the second go round I will put on a medium coat let it get hand slick then hammer on a second coat.You have to be careful with the first coat or it will be on the floor.HTH
Not really,Imron elite,delfleet,sikkens btlv 650 are all 3.5 voc compliant now.There are many 0 voc reducers to choose from that actually work not to bad.