Jayson Munro
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You are getting on it too soon,a thicker primer will need longer dry time.A good rule of thumb is 1hr per coat for air dry and minimum 30 mins from an infrared lamp at 18″ and more if shop temps are lower in the winter time(stick to tds for individual product).Another way to speed up dry times is to put your IR light on the panel BEFORE you start primimg to warm the panel and each coat as you go,be careful and gentle or you can make blisters and solvent pop :rofl Less is more here 😛
I haven’t tried it but have heard good things about it,cbp250 is quite thin in regards to filling power.Excellent idea Ryan I had forgotten about you mentioning that before.Do you over reduce it with sra and by how much?
[quote=”Ben” post=29151]
I do not know of any paint company that would warranty them either, but every paint rep I’ve met I unofficially said that using it on very small burn throughs, within reason, is perfectly acceptable…even under waterborne.[/quote]
Maybe other paint comanies are different but when I took the sikkens WB certification course 4 years ago they specifically said “do not use autowave over any spray bomb etch (spray bomb or from a gun) or spraybomb filler primer.If you put sealer over top of the bomb stuff you would be ok but it kind of defeats the purpose.
Some of them can be a real hassle.Most of the time I like to use proform 211 urethane seam sealer over epoxy or etch,then spray it with W&G remover and tool it with a brush,finger,glass stick etc.It is an art,on toyota doors I would run tape on both edges of the hem flange tool it and flatten out the corners and peel off the tape.I remember somebody doing a post of pics on how to duplicate factory seam sealer,I’ll see if I can find it.
[quote=”ding” post=29118]Len’s ok, but if you mentioned this site by name on his forum he would have deleted it and Henry would have written a page sermon about how wrong you were to do so :pcorn:[/quote]
Has Henry come up for air yet??? :rofl :rofl :roflIf your not spraying the bumper why are you asking to blend into it :blink:
I would pull the light,bumper,repair the quarter spot in base on the quarter and the small panel and clear everything.[quote=”Jayson M” post=29108][quote=”ARTSPRAY” post=29105]you are asking for a fail with waterbased binders plus the added difficulty with aplication
i can see absolutly no advantage to useing waterbased for such an aplication as your are just makeing extra work for an inferior job
one way is to extend black single stage with clear untill you achieve the transparancy you require ,candy tends to fade where pigment is far more lightfast
Paul[/quote]Thats why I said tint your clear with single stage,or candy,5grams of black per half pint of RTS clear is all you need.[/quote]
[quote=”ARTSPRAY” post=29105]you are asking for a fail with waterbased binders plus the added difficulty with aplication
i can see absolutly no advantage to useing waterbased for such an aplication as your are just makeing extra work for an inferior job
one way is to extend black single stage with clear untill you achieve the transparancy you require ,candy tends to fade where pigment is far more lightfast
Paul[/quote]Thats why I said tint your clear with single stage,or candy,5grams of black SS per half pint of RTS clear is all you need.
Just a heads up,make sure you have automotive type masking sheeting that will have one side marked for overspray or it will flake off 😉
Its really up to you,I don’t think you will have to spray base that far.IMO bumpers very rarely match anyway and you are far enough away from the other spot and there is a nice clean brake to tape it off.If you are worried about it you can blend around the corner on that small spot.
Each area is different in regards to labor rates and material costs,the price could be all over the place.To give an honest answer we would need to see it in person before the damage was fixed.
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=29089]buy a twelve pack of sam adams an invite ding over ta shoot it for ya :cheers :nothingtoad[/quote]
:rofl :rofl
Seriously tho if you reduce your air pressure and increase your distance with wide open material you can pretty much nail that corn on the cob texture.A faster mix of hardener and reducer will also help.Not every vehicle is the same,ford and dodge pick ups are the worst.Read the first page in the link,it will give you a basic idea of what to do.After it is repaired and prepped for paint you want to get coverage over your repair and extend each coat slightly,then blend your color,clear the complete panel.Obviously stick to the TDS instructions for the product you are using if not sikkens.
http://www.globalsafetynet.com/akzonobel/pdfs/akzo_213_english.pdf
That could be tricky,I don’t think you could tint the clear with a waterborne toner.You would have to use a transparent base (sikkens clear binder 666) tint with 245 black, then clear coat it,definately more of a pain.You could get some black single stage or a black candy and tint the clear.Thats the route I would go…
Solvent or waterborne?