Jayson Munro
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I have done quite a few old 70’s/80’s beaters and tinted single stage so its close and put in flattening agent+ some accelerator to match the lack of shine 😛 I have also done the same thing with bc/cc just mix the clear with matting clear to desired lack of gloss and some accelerator and it will do the same thing.If you add some white to a metallic color it can kill the metallics and give it that chalky mily look,just be careful.Jack gave good advice….
[quote=”lild” post=28524]Jayson has the experience with the new rp, he says its far better then the 3000, i have used the the hvlp, & liked far better then the 3000.
I did end up spending the coin for a new 1.4 tip kit for the rp, & been much more happier clearing with it then i was with the 1.3.[/quote]
At first I really liked it,and it does lay down a nice smooth coat of clear.I do find it a little on the slow side even with a 1.4,but still use it.My gun of choice is still the first gen RP with a 1.4,the 3000 is a nice gun too,just not my fav 😛
LMAO @ Ding :stoned
Here is an example…just back mask the wheel well with 1.5 inch then use 18inch paper around the wheel and well and tape it solid.Pretty simple and keeps dirt in.
[IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/015.jpg[/IMG]That’s interesting but I found no difference in material usage.I used a 3000hvlp for waterbone base for 2 years then switched to a tekna with the compliant cap,I found material consumption to be comparable or less with the tekna.Years ago I used a gti with a 1.4 for autobase,autobase plus,polybase,then switched to a first gen rp and material consumption was the same.I think the reason is you need more air pressure with an hvlp vs an rp to get the same atomization you in turn use more product.I’m not doubting you that’s just what I have found.Most compliant guns are the same as hvlps for transfer efficiency now IMO.
Looks good Dag thanks for sharing :cheers How many do you do a month??
In my area there have been more dupont delams than any other company,I don’t know of one shop in my area that uses it anymore :unsure:
[quote=”Underpaid Painter” post=28443][quote=”Jayson M” post=28441]I thought you had a tekna ?Thats about the best basecoat gun you will get,one air cap does everything ;)[/quote]
For solvent or water?[/quote]
The tekna works great for waterborne or solvent,I also like a sata rp for solvent base.I thought you had a tekna ?Thats about the best basecoat gun you will get,one air cap does everything 😉
I know a couple of guys who use matrix ,carsystem urki low voc base coat systems,they said you needed to put in double the reducer to get it to spray and blend nice.I have no idea about the transtar but maybe it needs more reducer to improve sprayability???
I have used a couple for almost 2 years,there a great all around gun from sealer,base,to clear.The tekna is not as fast of a clear gun as an Rp but it still does a decent job,just depends what your spraying style is.
Thats cool,sometimes you just got to do what ya gotta do 😉
Who knows what could happen,but there are an awful lot of decent low cost 2k urethane primers out there that are less than $100 for a kit(upol,carsystem,proform)Just tell your dad for the extra $50 for a decent primer its not worth having a reaction or a redo. Welcome to the site 😉
I am digging the color,maybe not the wheels tho :silly:
No offence but maybe it is your technique ,what gun are you using,what pressure,distance,and what pressure for final drop coat?Are you blending?Are you using the black card to put your sprayout on top so it has a 1/2 inch black border to see if it is blendable?How are you mixing the paint?Are you mixing the color completely before adding wb activator and after?I am not doubting you we just don’t have a problem getting great matches.