Jayson Munro
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Not so much shrinkage but you will get a touch of dieback if you don’t follow proper flash time.For wet on wet situations on jambs or sandblasted metal it works very well.I prefer a 2k urethane sealer for everthing else.
You could start with 600 and sand the vehicle that way.IMO the amount of work it takes to wetsand a complete with 600 with no burn throughs is not worth it.I would just wet sand it with 400 and seal the entire vehicle,this way you don’t have to worry about burn troughs and you will have a nice uniform color and improve adhesion.Todays 2k urethane sealers go on silky smooth with no texture so you won’t have to worry about OP.
For a flat finish all you need is black single stage mixed with a 100% flattening agent.THis will give you the slight krinkle finish and flat appearance and beats doing base with a flat clear.I use Utech 200 or sikkens Rally black,spies has a rally black also.Much more durable and a time saver,I use it on gm/ford muscle car restorations.
If that is working for you Bill you have been pretty lucky.I will say again you would be better off using an epoxy primer for a DTM situation like in your pictures.Try a little experiment with your etch primer,spray some on a test panel and let it sit for a few days.Now take some lacquer thinner and wipe the etch primer and you will find it will all come off.Etch primer is based on lacquer technology and will reflow/rewet when you hit it with solvent from base.Phosphoric acid will not make it harden it just bites into the steel.
A properly mixed urethane sealer or epoxy primer once cured will not be removed with lacquer thinner,very durable when cured and cross linked with your base and clear or single stage urethane.
I agree with the others about taking a paint course from the manufaturer that you are using in your shop,and Ryan is spot in in his explanation.Bill if you list the #of your sealer we can find out the info in the tds sheet or maybe you can check yourself.It is usually safe to wait about 15-30 mins for sealer to flash.
You really have to be careful basing over etch,a better option is to use epoxy as a sealer or a quick coat of etch followed by a 2k urethane sealer,then base as normal.If you follow proper flash you will not have any trouble.Using sealer is not a short cut,if your not using sealer on after market or oem parts that is just dumb.Many if not all manufacturers warranty (paint and automobile manufactures) will be void if you don’t use it.A good 2k urethane sealer will improve adhession,stone chip resistance and overall durability of a replacement part.1k sealer is junk ,come on man read the TDS sheets and get with the times.How can you offer a warranty at your shop if you don’t know about the products your using :blink:
Why didn’t you pull the doors and the back hatch glass so you could prep it properly and get even coverage?
220 on a da over bodywork is a sure way to make it wavy.The combination of lower quality products from different manufacturers also does not help.Finally if your base is dull it dosen’t mean it is ready to clear,bare minimum wait time between base and clear should be 30 mins in a booth moving lots of air.When I use solvent base on a complete I care about I will wait 1hr,this one step will improve gloss.When using a cheaper 2k primer it is also a good idea to use a sealer just incase the primer is porous(most cheap 2k’s are full of talc and the possibility of the top coat soaking in are inevitable)
Personally I would get your booth and vehicle as clean as possible and mask to keep the dirt out and use the dupont clear and call it done.As far as primer shrinking they all do it,that is why taking the extra steps to prep it properly and not pile on too much go a long way in a lasting repair.Try an experiment…. mix up some primer and leave a 1/4 inch in the bottom of the cup and leave it for a week or two,you will be surprised how much smaller it is by the end of the time period.
No he said one visit application which means a half coat(means super thin closed coat which has no dry areas,you have to be close and fast with the gun) and then a nice full wet coat.If you pound on 2 wet coats you will have more trouble.
[quote=”Ben” post=27998]According to the SATA website it is :huh:[/quote]
Thats interesting,my jobber said you can’t get them anymore.If someone wants one they better hurry.[quote=”Ben” post=27994][quote=”Jayson M” post=27993]Don’t forget about the first gen rp,it works great with good speed also ;)[/quote]
That is true. I was referring to guns you can still buy new, though. :P[/quote]
I don’t think the 3000 is available anymore either 😛
Don’t forget about the first gen rp,it works great with good speed also 😉
Here are a couple of pics of what we had to deal with,you can see pdr is limited on this extensive damage. I’m 2 hours south of Ben.
http://www.google.ca/imgres?imgurl=http://www.country95.fm/news/images/Blair%2520kelly%2520blob%2520photo%2520of%2520hail.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.country95.fm/news/news-detail.asp?ID%3D5636&h=298&w=450&sz=45&tbnid=avGA43N81pRO-M:&tbnh=90&tbnw=136&zoom=1&usg=__yCHJDL-rTB9vJ6wi0lyQayKDh5A=&docid=mq4Zk1vq2c4AGM&sa=X&ei=q0aVUK7pMomiiQKZt4HgAw&ved=0CCIQ9QEwAA&dur=7425http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/calgary/story/2012/07/27/calgary-cardston-hail-broken-bones.html
If you want to spray faster put a 1.4 in your 3000 😉
Using a hardener/activator that is too fast for the job at hand will also cause pop.
