Jayson Munro
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Cool car,what power train does it have?
The only thing epoxy based about quantum is the hardener,the filler is regular polyester filler with finer talc and resin.What I don’t like about evercoat fillers is they are super thick and harder to mix than other fillers,the old marson platinum is super creamy,easy to mix and spread and really doesn’t need a skim of flowable putty to finish it off.
Post a link I would be interested in what you have found.I have been doing the same thing with an extensive re-build of a 66 mustang that should have been crushed.
[quote=”MoCoke” post=27864]go with 3m platinum or plus. much better product[/quote]
X2 I have not used evercoat products for a long time and don’t plan too 😉The camaro turned out awesome Scott!! You should post pics of the camaro you are doing now.Welcome to the site!
[quote=”Painterman1″ post=27834]Where I live the humidity is bad year round it stay around 30 percent and up very rarely gets under 20 percent And I usually have to bake the base for at least 10 minutes at 170 and sometimes it still isn’t dry[/quote]
Be extremely cautious doing a short bake on your base :unsure: It will be comparable to clearing well after your recoat window and lose adhesion.Nothing wrong with ramping up your temp to 85 or so after your blend/drop coat for 10 mins.What would happen if you put one coat on and let it flash before you did your second?I know your not supposed to do it that with with dupont but water dries from the bottom up,so if the bottom is still wet how will it ever dry?TO me it seems dupont breaks the rule of too much too soon with their base.Just my 2 cents
How are you doing your mid coat blend?Are you staggering your blend or just keep going outward?I would do a spray out of the ground coat and see how it matches some where on the car(under hood trunk etc).If your ground coat is off you are already screwed and you will not match it.What exactly do you have to spray?Sometimes taking an extra panel is necessary to achieve a good blend with more room.WHat paint brand are you using?
Bill we are talking about waterborne systems not solvent,big difference in diagnosing the problem.
Pretty sure that is what’s happening to you nick.It doesn’t help that cromax goes in in 1.5-2.5 coats back to back with no flash time.That is quite a bit of material and I bet the bottom is still somewhat soft.There have been numerous peelers up here from all of the big systems.If the bottom is soft once you get a chip moisture can get underneath the clear and you know what happens next.There is a shop north of us with 2 years of cromax redos.Where are you?This can be a common problem in the snow belt area with high winds and anywhere they use calcium chloride on winter roads.What happens is you get a small rock chip,then moisture/calcium chloride attacks the base and gets up underneath the clear and the next thing you know its peeling.Longer flash time and the use of a hardener can help.If not you need longer flash time :blush:
Hang in there Andy :cheer: I think everybody has been in a position like that before,especially if you have been doing this for a long period of time.Often personalities will clash and authority doesn’t like to be challenged even if they are wrong.You are very good at what you do and I’m sure its just a matter of time before you get back into a big production shop.Have you thought about being a paint rep or technical rep/instructor at a training center?Maybe it’s time to look at doing something else.Good luck to you and keep us posted :cheer:
X3 on sikkens.I have been spraying since 1988,used most of the major brands and have always come back to sikkens.I have been spraying sikkens and utech since 2002 at the shop that I work at now.I have been happy with the color match and how user friendly it has been for us.We changed over to autowave in april 2009 and haven’t looked back.Superior 250 clear is the icing on the cake 😉
Glad it worked out for you Scott,looking forward to photos also,it turned out real nice 😉
Never sacrifice quality for speed,learn how to do it right the first time and speed comes from repetition.When it comes to bumper repairs most of them are 2hrs for R&I,1.5-2hrs to refinish,it would be impossible to do it 4-6 times faster :unsure: that statement makes no sense.With that said 3-4 hrs is not a lot of time to completely strip and restore/repair a bumper,most times its faster to put on a new aftermarket bumper.Sheet metal repair,frame work,painting are the only places you can really cut your time down,but you need experience to know how to do it with out sacrificing quality.
I’m still thinking bumping up the pressure,moving in nice and tight,75% overlap and move fast,this technique works with all sikkens products 😉
[quote=”lild” post=27630]Is that a samuel adams. And please dont ever ruin a great finish by puting your ugly azz mug in the pic..[/quote]
😆 😆