Jayson Munro
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I voted for the camaro 😛 😛 😛
I have been spraying Utech for over 10 years on a daily basis on big trucks cars or whatever.For 3.5 it likes a sata rp 1.4 and sprays really nice and effortless.If you have any questions about the different accelerators and how to spray it PM me and I can help you out.If you are in a non regulated area 3.8 would be a better choice,its not as finicky as 3.5.Check out polybase as well,it mixes off the same bench you just have to add a different binder to make it a base coat.
I vote for sealer as well….not a fan of basing on raw plastic or a primed bumper.Bulldog adpro is junk in my book.
OK here is option #2…if you say that you can scrape it off with a fingernail get some lacquer thinner and wipe the stripe off the quarter.Then get some vinyl stripe and completely pinstripe both sides….
The drop coat with autowave is necessary for color match you need to drop your pressure at least 5psi and increase your distance to 14 inches depending on what gun you use.If your not doing a drop coat that is 80% of your problem.If you want to lighten a color use the smallest metallic in the formula or the coarsest to darken it.There is not much painter error with autowave it doesn’t matter if I do a drop coat at 24 or 16psi with a tekna there is no color change and I have the spray outs to prove it.I have been using it for 3.5 years and 8 out of 10 times the standard is a blendable match.Panel painting is a waste of time IMO in this day and age.Take the autowave tinting course it can also help….
Why are you asking for help if your going to do what you want anyway :S Its simple mask it off or reproduce it with vinyl pinstripe.Your not going to get a reaction…..
I will mask off the painted pinstripe,blend out the color as needed,unmask the stripe and clear the whole panel….No edge and nobody can tell the difference.I have done way to many dodges like that in my lifetime 😉
Looks great Barry,bet your glad that its finally left :p
:p :p I was thinking the same thing….. Seriously tho,that is some nice work right there!!
I have been to hundreds of car shows in my area as well as some big cities,even had a couple of my paint jobs win best paint at street machine weekend in my home town.I have also seen many award winners at big shows that I attended like nace and sema.Not all “showcars” are the same,I would say 1 in 100 is actually worth having that title.I always see plenty of sand scratches,haze,swirls,dirt,dried up polish,etc on most of these so called “high end jobs”that look worse to me than a damn nice off the gun finish.Don’t even get me started on the crappy metal work,panel fit/gaps etc 😛
I always tell people if they want it perfect it has to be sanded and polished(very few people have the talent to pull it off).Maybe I’m a hacky collision painter but I would rather have a job that was sanded and recleared VS a cut and buffed job any day.
I use a toner right off my mixing bank(utech 294)you have to add a different binder to make it single stage or base coat.Never tried it with just basecoat but an acrylic or urethane base would work but doubtful a polyester basecoat would.I would just use black single stage to make it easier.All your really doing is tinting it slightly,really no issue in the product not curing.
Some guys use a black candy to smoke tail lights and I’m sure there are lots of ways to do it.I will usually mix up a half a pint of clear so it is ready to spray,then add some black to the mix from the darkest toner on our bench.I will start with 5-10 grams of black but you need to be careful,if you don’t put enough in it will take 10 coats,too much and they will be black in one coat :)You could put in your black pearl but it will be hard to see and I wouldn’t rely on just that for smoking your lights.
[quote=”JCClark” post=27043]You guys have been stuck in “collision repair” paint jobs to long,
High End custom shops generally start with 400 grit to sand their clear,
you won’t get rid of urethane wave completely useing something
above 600 grit. Try it once and you’ll see the difference.
I know I didn’t believe it either at first, but it does make a difference.http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/perfect%20paint.htm%5B/quote%5D
A backyarder preaching about “collison repair” & “high end custom shops” is ironic 😡 😛
[quote=”JCClark” post=27043]You guys have been stuck in “collision repair” paint jobs to long,
A backyarder talking about “collision repair” and “high End custom shops” strikes me as funny 😡 😛Here is something to think about,if your clear looks like corn on the cob with low spots while sanding I think this is your problem.Your pressure is too low,and you are moving too slow.You need to open up fan and material knobs to wide open and try 35 psi.The further away and slower you go the higher the film build will be,if you move in nice and tight (4inches)and move fast you will put on a thinner wetter coat.Check and make sure your gun is clean(aircap holes,fluid tip etc)and you have a nice fan pattern