Jayson Munro
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He is talking about urethane wave,there are a couple of forums who talk about it all the time.Trust me you are not going to see it with 2 coats of AG40LV.Maybe you need to bump up your pressure,6 inches is to far away.I can spray that clear with an rp at 26psi and not get anything like that,hell even sikkens superior 250 with 70% solids and don’t get it.Please don’t think you need to reduce every clear to make it spray better,its just not so.What exactly are you spraying?? A bumper that is already wavy 😛
Why are you having problems?AG40LV is thin and sprays really nice for me,high solids does not mean thick.What are you using to spray it?
IMHO it would only make a difference with a bake booth.When the bake cycle is in use on our booth there is a baffle that shuts in the exhaust ducting and this recirculates the heated air and will help keep the temp up(the air make up kicks in to keep a constant temp)instead of dumping it outside.
If you just putting in a regular non bake booth non insulated walls are not a big deal.I’m still very fond of the old devilbiss pressurized cross flows and concept down draft booths,damn they worked good 😉Post some pics 😉 I would like to find out more about the adhesion problem just in case your complete car has been affected.
Get a side cabinet for your tool box with a locking door,it will have a shelf and put in some generic gun hooks and you are good to go.I can store all my guns plus spare parts and new paint suits in it for about $125.I got mine from nappa.
Just phone the color lab in Atlanta if you need the # I can get it for you tomorrow.I have phoned there many times and they have always been able to get the formula for me,sometimes your jobber couldn’t be bothered.If you want a bang on match they can also do a lab match but it will take a few days.
[quote=”Shadow888″ post=26893]I have been painting cars since I was 16 years old and am 61 now. It use to be that we were allow to blend any adjacent panel to match but it is different now with all the ecconomy problems we are having. Insurance companys are taking advantage of the situation knowing there are not enough jobs to go around thaus letting the shop to take it or leave it but they just wont pay. Insurance companys are like dogs, they puch the limit to see how far and how much they can get away with and if the shop manager gives them a leed way then next time it will be worse. We as painters only have one solution to the problem of not getting paid for panel blending, quit and go to the next job. In this bussiness nothing is lost when we quit we just change place of employment, I know I have done it at least 20 times in my lifetime.[/quote]
That is really unfortunate if it is that way in your area but it’s not the norm.We get blend time on every insurance job and an extra panel if needed on a tri-stage.In our paint shop we just go ahead and blend the next panel.Blending is so much faster then spending time on a spray out/tinting and risking a mediocre butt match forcing a redo which destroys your profit margin.With customer pay jobs they always choose blending vs a butt after the risks are explained in full.
Post up some pics so we can see what you are seeing,much easier to help you.
Welcome to the site,lots of good guys here who can answer all of your questions :cheers
[quote=”smooth” post=26830]Be carefull, the stuff does like to pop very easily as is…[/quote]
I have never had it pop on me either :unsure:
What other products did he suggest?Hopefully not utech 4.0 or proair…Welcome to the site :cheers
I would try the extra slow hardener,if its like ag40lv it is fast.I did ask a matrix rep and he said 5% would be ok.Hope it works out for ya….Just use the extra slow Scott,if its like the AG40LV it sets up fast,doing a front end with slow is a challenge at 80F.I did talk to a matrix rep and he said 5% reducer would be ok.So you could try the extra slow,and add 5% to slow it down more or just use 2021.Hope it works out for ya….
You need to watch the P grade sandpaper,P1000 is actually 500 grit.You will be fine if you use 600-800 on an orbital sander and gray scotchbrite the edges.Use some spraynine on them first to make sure they are clean and free from bug guts.Clearing headlights works fine,I have never had a problem doing it this way,you could even spray on some adhession promoter if you want before you clear like sikkens PO.
Good lord don’t wipe it with wax and grease remover :wak Adding hardener to autowave will increase flash and tape times,2.5% will make it spray decent but blending can still be tricky.Personally I wouldn’t use it….
You dropped your pressure too much and went to slow,your distance should have been about 8-10 inches,vs 4-6 inches for coverage coats.If you normaly spray your solvent base with the tekna at 25 I would have dropped it to 22psi on the last coat.WHAt is the temp you are spraying at?