Jayson Munro
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[quote=”smooth” post=26794]You could also try a drop/orientation coat after you achieve hiding.This means lower your pressure and increase your distance to 10-12 inches and mist the metallics on 50-60% overlap so they look even.[/quote]
You need to be careful doing that with solvent base,depending on the brand it can cause adhesion issues and is not reccomended.That is why I suggested droping psi a couple pounds and increasing distance and still put it on in a medium wet coat,kind of a cheaters drop coat but still wet enough not to be.I wouldn’t touch the fan settings or fluid settings,increasing your distance on the last coat should fix it for you.Try a higher quality slow reducer,you would be surprised how well that will work.Your tekna prolite is an excellent base gun,no need to change
Try a slower speed reducer to see if it helps, increasing your distance and drop the air pressure a couple of psi for your last coat might help too.
You are at the point now when you need extra slow for everything.Try to get your painting done in the morning before it gets too hot and maybe come in early if you can,its much better to come in at 5 or 6 and knock off at 2 or 3.I used to use extra slow reducer or a portion of utech 200 retarder(extra slow) in my base when it was that hot,and extra slow activator for the clear.
Yes I still use the aluminum cups for sealer and clear and the disposable cups for waterborne base coat.
Any sata cup with the quick connect fitting will work for you,you can buy them brand new from a sata dealer or on ebay.It ticks me off that sata started doing that,they used to give the 1L aluminum cup out with all of there guns,another way to save a buck I guess :wak
X3 I will admit for 3-4 months I tried religiously to use hardener in every color I sprayed.What I found after playing with different % amounts that it was harder to blend,sprayed like ass,took longer to flash,increased tape time on 2 tones.I will not use it anymore and spray it different ly to compensate for the few problems that we had.You also need to be careful if you bake your base so you can tape faster,you can loose all your adhesion.
[quote=”Red Baron” post=26726]Get the new tape from 3M 6528 series and put it all behind you. It will leave a cleaner edge than the fine line and release easy from the base without adhesive transfer. Its a pale green colored tape. I’ve been using it three months and zero issues.[/quote]
Do you have a link for this tape???I can’t find it online…..thanks
Come on man everyone here has explained to you why scuff gel will work better for you and nobody wetsands with 800 for blends cuz its too slow.If you have thin clear and are worried about buring thru don’t use 800 wet,guaranteed you will burn thru on an edge before you know it.Like was said before 800 on a da and gray pad the edges is what everyone here does,not 800 wet.If you want to use it go ahead,but scuff gel is much safer.Good luck…
Usually guys tell me my wife has a nice set of hammers :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl
If you don’t want to buy scuff gel you can use comet,just dip the scotch brite in water put a bit of comet/scuff gel on the pad and go to town.
[quote=”Ben” post=26671]Looks good so far. Nice looking plug welds too…
Is that an old Proto body hammer? Looks like the ones my Grandpa has.[/quote]
Thanks Ben,I will admit I am a little rusty but it doens’t take long to get back in the groove.
Yes they are proto body hammers(best ever made IMHO) I have close to a full set and they work very nice.I would rather use the old stuff vs snap-on.
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[IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/myhoney080.jpg[/IMG]If your worried about burning threw the clear use a gray scotch brite pad with some scuff paste/blend prep(even comet will work) ans scuff it wet.You just have to do it enough to knock the shine off.
Here is the floor layed in,slowly but surely I’m getting there :blush:
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[IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/IMG_1983.jpg[/IMG]Well I got all the tourqe boxes and inner rails cleaned up and coated them with por 15.I had to do some patching in the toe board/firewall before I could lay the floor in.I was able to lay the floor in the car but haven’t welded it in yet.This was by far the worst part,once this is out of the way it will be free sailing.Here are some pics to show progress.
rear torque box
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cover on
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front rail and toeboard
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patch installed
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