Jayson Munro
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Not sure where you live but each area is different with legal claims.First off did you give him an estimate or a detailed work order explaining what had to be done or was this a cash side job?If there is no paper trail it comes down to your word against his.Did he give you a chance to try to correct the flaws or just take you to court?IMO a “show car” has perfect gaps/panel alignment,jambs are painted,perfect straight body work and panels from hrs of block sanding,perfect paint with no dirt,orange peel,sanding scratches swirls that looks like glass.Our shop starts out at $12,000 for that kind of work and we have had jobs that cost 4-5 times that.For $1500 you never should have let him think he was going to get perfection for a minimal price,possibly a lack of communication on both partys.Sounds like the typical guy who wants a perfect paint job for cheap $$$.When he pulled it out of another shop that would have been a red flag for me….hope it works out for you.
Welcome to the site :welc my wife has an uncle that lives on the gold coast,you are lucky to live in such a nice place.
Not sure if you can get them down there but the devilbiss tekna or gti pro are a nice gun and reasonably priced.
If I was doing a rod or muscle car black I would do it in single stage wait a day or two then wet sand it with 600 and flow coat it with clear,looks so much deeper that way.
As far as candies go pick one you like and do a let down panel to see how many coats will give you the desired shade.When it comes time to spray the candy they can be tricky,you can’t panel paint you have to walk the side to get even coverage.When the time comes there are many people here who can help you.Phone PPG directly,they can give you the best answer.
Never used it can’t comment,looks like industrial or from delfleet division.Whats wrong with 2k urethane primer?
Depends on what brand you used,check the tds sheet to be sure.Epoxy doesn’t sand very well as a rule so you might want to use a 2k urethane primer on top of one coat of epoxy after it has flashed.We need more info before we can give you an accurate answer.You can also do filler work over properly prepared bare metal also.
Looking good Jack :cheers
Couple of ideas,sounds like the clear is already mixed for the maximum speed,not sure how you could get it faster short of accelerator.Try 2 medium coats with minimum flash,some speed clears work better this way.What could be happening is its skinning over and the extra flash time is not helping.I agree with the others about slowing it down or possible bad batch of hardener.The slower you mix clear will allow you to put on a smoother thinner coat that will flash faster.Let us know what happens….
Looking good Jack :dnc The added space looks like it will be helpful to increase your production,you could even have a paint side and body side.Happy for you man you deserve it;)
Nice looking cards man,but don’t you think you should have put a car on there with plastic bumpers like a honda :p :p
Wish I could say I have more progress as its been going kind of slow.As it stands now I have both inner and outer rockers installed and lined up with the doors so it won’t flop around like a chicken when I cut out the floor.Here are some pictures of where I’m at right now,be warned they are not for the faint of heart as this is pretty far gone.
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[IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/IMG_1974.jpg[/IMG]Are you using p grade paper?for eg sia p1000 paper is actually 500 grit and p800 is 400 grit.I use carbo preimer red paper,the primer is usually finished in 400-500 and I will use 800 on an interface pad to prep blend panels or the norton/carbo foam backed hand sanding paper.It works for us and we don’t have a sand scratch problem.
Try a different clear and see if you still get them,that way you will know it is the product.Something else,you might want to try a different wax and grease remover,sometimes they can cause that if not cleaned enough or painted over to fast.
[quote=”painter70″ post=26351]Autosealer WB. waterborne sealer used for sensitive substrates and coatings. apply one to two coats, let dry, scuff if needed or go wet on wet non sanding with your basecoat.[/quote]
That would be good on a bumper cover and nothing more , not on a big truck or a cube van.Honestly I think it is a crappy product,to sensitive to contaminates and it isn’t activated,it reminds me of the 1k sealers from the 80’s.utech 460 sealer or 350 epoxy is the winner here.Post pictures of the problem areas,it will be easier for us to figure out a plan.If it was media blasted with fresh paint peeling everywhere and you dash problem doesn’t sound promising.Chances are good that you might have to strip it off to see what the last shop covered up….
you won’t use as much 3.5 vs 200 and it stays open much longer for the large jobs,we use it on big trucks all the time.I would still use one coat of epoxy sealer though….just sayin….