Jayson Munro
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Haven’t used any of the 4010,just going by what my local jobber has told me.I have used plenty of 2021,its a great clear.
I would use either the 4010(low voc of dc4000) or the 2021(great clear and probably the easiest for you to use)
It depends how beat up the bumper is, if there are no chips,scratches etc a quick scuff with 400 and an interface pad on a 6″ palm sander then red scuff pad your edges.I would then proceed straight to a white sealer,base then clear and call it done.It also depends how carried away you want to get on color match,most tri-stage white vehicles dont even match themselves.(the bumpers,moldings and door handles can be a smorg of different colors)
If you want it to match perfectly you have 2 choices,blend the quarters or do a let down panel to see how many coats of midcoat pearl you need for a match.A let down panel is a spray out divided into 3 sections that will show 2,4,6 coats of pearl so you can match it to the car(plenty of info about them if you search).Good luck
I hear ya,sounds like a frustrating position to be in.Just for kicks order some 250 and keep it hidden and do some jobs with it.When he asks what are you doing differently you can pull out the sikkens cans 👿 There are good and bad with every brand and hopefully they get it figured out for ya.I did use a gallon of 750 appearance clear for a complete for a customer that had to have ppg.I thought the clear sprayed pretty good with a nice gloss,not sure what it looks like now though.
[quote=”jgates1985″ post=35926] Ppg just released a new clear ec-530 suppose to replace the 700. Hoprefully going to get my hands on it next week. The jobbers i have talked to said its suppose to be as good as or better than sikkens superior 250. hope this helps.[/quote]
I’ll take that bet,they have been trying for 6 years to get something close to 250 and haven’t even got in the ballpark yet :stoned All in good fun guys 😛
What size filters are you using in the rps cups 190 or 125 micron?
I have had very good luck with sata and devilbiss gauges/regs
Man those are some low pressures,I would be tempted to try 22 for base and 25 for clear.I have also heard the silver cap is a general workhorse,but have not used them.Jimmo the site owner has used an lph for a long time so maybe he will jump in.
Im not an lph user but I do know these guns work better at a higher pressure than advertised.I would put money on it that if your basecoat is really textured you are not getting enough atomization to your base (air pressure too low) I would try full controls with 25psi and see how it does.
Ben those are excellent examples of how you sometimes have to break the rules to get the job done in a production environment.I agree with you and have had to do many repairs like that over the years.For 95% of the rest of the repairs the old school way works the best :stoned
Its funny that no paint company will warranty the evercoat technique.In my opinion the old school way is far superior in a long lasting sand scratch free repair.When I do filler work there would be at least an inch or two of bare metal then properly feathered paint with 320 before priming.Most people use putty over paint to cheat in there prep work and never get all the sand scratches out of the paint and prime over them,eventually they come back.
Well that’s good and bad Ben,I hope everything works out for you with getting everything fixed.My wife and I went through that last summer with our brand new house and equinox.
Thanks for clearing that up Ryan,I was way off :stoned
Pretty sure you tape it horizontally along the fan adj knob to the air cap along the body to show you the proper distance= air cap to the surface you are painting.4-6 inches is the basic distance that works for many refinishers.Thats my take,maybe Im wrong though LOL
Like others have stated,if its an aftermarket cover just wipe it off with lacquer thiner or sikkens anti static and treat it as a raw plastic cover.If you sand it you will make more work for your self causing the plastic to get “furry” or unnecessary scratches so you will have to prime and resand.Once its bare a good scuuf with a gray scotchbrite with sanding paste,clean with soap and water,adhession promoter,urethane sealer,base,clear,done.
It really depends where you are going to paint it and if you do it yourself and what color,bc/cc or single stage.If you are going to do it in your garage I don’t really know what to tell you as WB could be a big struggle for you.I have been talking with my Axalta rep about demoing their mosaic low voc solvent base coat and clear for a friends 68 chevelle,thats a couple months away but we will see.I am very happy with Sikkens that is on my chevelle,looks like the day I sprayed it and would use it again.