Jayson Munro
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Trust me,the extra coat will save you time in the long run,if 2 coats doesn’t cover and you need a third what have you saved :stoned 2 coats will cover light gray,dark blue could be dicy with 200.Hope it all goes well for ya :p Why don’t you use 3.5 or 2.8?? If its going to be a rough one the 350 epoxy will help with the sins from the finish rake :p
Looks good charlie,how did you like it??
Spray on a coat of 350 epoxy with 5-10% 200 reducer or use 460 sealer,just do it man it will save you so much aggravation.
Around $150 -$200 for 5-6 sprayable Litres,I would have to double check tomorrow for exact cost.If you do it in 2.8 you only need one coat;)
[quote=”ryan999″ post=26272]I like Prevost or Eaton push lock hoses.[/quote]
Do you have a link or pictures of those hoses Ryan???
I know what you mean Ben,I did that over Christmas break.Utech is a fantasic product,it hasn’t let us down yet in over 13 years of use.They have awesome basecoat and single stage systems.
No can’t say that I have,I wonder if you can get it here.I have used slick sand and upol reface and they seemed to work very well for me.Sprayable polyesters are great for a rough body but many people really abuse them :p
Absolutely,that is the best way to do a fiberglass car or a real beat up steel car.
We have been using the flexzilla hoses http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=26864 and have found them to work very well.We get about a year and a half out of them with repeated bake cycles.
We have also had great luck with wurth brand hoses just for the booth,super flexable,thats what we are using now,over a year and a half and still going strong with no chunks yet :pWelcome to the site,this is a great place to hang out and read and post,enjoy your stay. :welc
Nope not at all.For you guys that are having trouble polishing real HS clears or anti scratch get yourself some Farecla G4 with a Farecla lambs wool pad.These products will cut down your buffing time in half.Finish up with some G10 and the farecla red finishing foam and its down the road.THis is the only polish our shop has found that works on superior 250.
The only way I would entertain the idea of using an aftermarket cover on a beemer is if my supplier would let me return it if it didn’t fit.Honestly you could get a dead cat huge gap and might not even line up remotely close.For asian cars the aftermarket is not bad,for european cars the parts are awful in my experience.
I prefer UA or even the bluer variant over UH….just sayin :p
Nothing is like an OEM replacement part,sure you can make an aftermarket work but they can be a pain,they are either too big or too small.If you go the aftermatrket route test fit it before you paint it and hope for the best.If it was mine I would hold out for a good original or buy new.
Since this thread has been Hijacked :p Ryan made good points but I would like to add that energy pro and superior are similar in price.With that being said with a little bit of accelerator and spot and panel it is pretty quick also and looks better,so why use energy pro 😉 Looks like only one user has something good to say about HPC.