Jayson Munro

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Viewing 15 posts - 916 through 930 (of 1,510 total)
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  • October 29, 2011 at 7:26 am #33862

    Fan pattern is wide and a little finer than the 3000
    Noise-who cares really doesn’t matter.
    The 3000rp puts out a touch more material than the first gen rp but not enough to notice a difference,it is still a fast gun.
    Lots of guys like the 3000 and do nice work with them.Any one of the rps work.

    October 29, 2011 at 7:04 am #33859

    [quote=”chevman” post=23305]Have you guys ever heard of starting a complete in the middle of the roof? Not just on one style of car, but doing it everyday on all cars.[/quote]
    I have heard of people doing it but it makes no sense at all,your edge in the middle will be dry and the overspray might not melt in when you get back to it.The right way is to start on the drip rail and move towards the center,go to the other side pick up in the middle and work towards the other drip rail.The key to doing a complete is chasing the wet edge and not panel painting.Do the roof,trunk,right 1/4 door,left 1/4 door,right fender,hood left fender.Sometimes walking the side is a good option also.

    October 29, 2011 at 5:28 am #33858

    I didn’t say it couldn’t be done on a small car like a hyundai,but you sure would have a tough time on a 08 chevy crewcab.We have had energy pro for a year and a half so it’s not like I haven’t tried it,I just don’t care for it.Kinda like the 3000rp with a 1.3,I don’t like it either.I do anywhere between 4-8 jobs a day,I hate baking stuff as I lose 30 mins booth time each cycle,so I use some lv accelerator in superior 250 when I need speed.I only use energy pro on a panel or bumper cover,I don’t see the point using it on bigger jobs when superior looks better.

    October 29, 2011 at 5:25 am #33857

    The old first gen rp does just as good of a job as the 3000rp IMO 😉

    October 28, 2011 at 9:31 am #33851

    What kind of complete a hyundai :rofl Seriously your not going to do a chevy crew cab with the stuff at 110,I call bullshit on that :p Even in a non bake situation superior 250 is fast enough for me.I do not like energy pro and would rather spray superior all day long,our cost on it is around $65 a litre sprayable.
    Here are a couple examples of superior 250 just for kicks.
    [IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/016-2.jpg[/IMG]
    [IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/013-3.jpg[/IMG]
    [IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/IMG_1618-1.jpg[/IMG]
    And here is my old friend HS+
    [IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/IMG_0170-1.jpg[/IMG]

    October 28, 2011 at 5:25 am #33840

    I do :rofl

    October 28, 2011 at 5:09 am #33837

    [quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=23285]What nozzle size do you use?

    HS+ isn’t my go to clear for great looks anyway. It is alright but it can be a bit finicky in my opinion. It is not Superior[/quote]
    I agree 100% I only miss it when it is very hot out for completes.Energy pro is not much better,it can be finicky also.
    If you wanty to know I use a 1.4 in my 2000,3000,4000rp’s

    October 25, 2011 at 9:16 am #33787

    You could do it wet with 600 or dry on a finishing palm sander and an interface pad.Put some 1/2 inch tape over every panel gap to protect the edges,then use a gray scotch brite pad on your edges.All you need to do is give it a quick sand to knock the shine off,no need to burn thru.

    October 23, 2011 at 2:03 am #33722

    I can’t see your pictures,or you really haven’t done anything :p :rofl

    October 20, 2011 at 8:24 am #33693

    [quote=”Nexson” post=23142]i agree with the article, i mean ding, bondo, and jayson are great examples :lol1[/quote]
    Examples of what Nexy??AZZHOLES 😛 :rofl :rofl :rofl

    October 20, 2011 at 6:22 am #33690

    Nothing,both are decent products,dbc is more user friendly .

    October 19, 2011 at 7:06 am #33665

    What are you comparing 90 line to dbc and autobase plus,or enviro and autowave?You are the only guy I have heard say 90 line is the best choice.

    October 19, 2011 at 6:55 am #33664

    BASF has issues with there waterborne systems,one thing that turned me off is doing a 2-tone,it is reccomended to clear your first color then do the 2nd color the next day of after a bake cycle.Also not very easy to repair,not a true waterborne,still solvent toners with a waterborne binder.

    October 19, 2011 at 3:09 am #33646

    Energy pro is a fast clear,and one of my least favorites.Slowing it down will help.

    October 18, 2011 at 2:51 am #33611

    [quote=”jeremyb” post=23062]Good explanation, but with proper gun adjustment, spraying technique, and reducer selection there is no need for drop coats, assuming you are using a quality base system. On lower quality systems, I’ve seen guy sword fight their way through an all over achieve a uniform metallic finish. Beats me why they keep using the stuff.[/quote]
    You are obviously too young to have sprayed the original autobase,you had to drop coat it…Dont you blend or are you just spraying restos?The technique is very similar.

Viewing 15 posts - 916 through 930 (of 1,510 total)