Jayson Munro

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Viewing 15 posts - 961 through 975 (of 1,510 total)
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  • September 30, 2011 at 3:04 am #33255

    Hick wick is just trying to be the new site azzhole 😛 Thanks for posting pics of the mustang 85 😉

    September 25, 2011 at 10:51 pm #33181

    Welcome aboard :cheers

    September 25, 2011 at 7:33 am #33136

    Yes I think you answered your own question 😛

    September 25, 2011 at 6:57 am #33132

    Just spray it the way it supposed to be mixed in the TDS,no need for extra reducer,that is just asking for trouble.I put on a nice medium wet first coat,let it get hand slick,then put your second coat on nice and wet.It always worked for me no matter what the temp was,real easy clear to shoot.

    September 25, 2011 at 3:56 am #33121

    Welcome to the site,nice to have you :cheers

    September 25, 2011 at 1:45 am #33111

    Yes you can wet sand with 600 once your paint has cured,this will take care of any texture or nibs.Treat it like another paintjob,make sure you unmask everything and wash the car and re-mask it before you re-clear.I did a friends comet in concept urethane,wetsanded it with 600 and hosed on 2 coats of 2021,it got best paint at street machine weekend in 2007.Post some pictres of your project 😉

    September 25, 2011 at 12:54 am #33109

    X2 Dp40 not the dplf crap.Utech 350 is nice as is Sikkens EP.

    September 24, 2011 at 11:08 pm #33106

    Since you are doing a classic in solid colors I do not see any advantage in doing it in bc/cc.If it was me I would do both of those colors in a high quality single stage urethane,solid colors look better in single stage.I would spray the roof white,let it sit for a day and mask it off and spray the blue…done.As far as walking the roof,it can be done but it is more work than it is worth.You need to chase the wet edge when spraying such a large panel or your overspray will not melt in.You need to start at the edge/drip rail and work towards the center,then go to the other side and continue in the middle and spray to the edge of the roof.I think using buckets or milk crates to stand on will be easier,just spray a 3-4ft section,go to the other side spray 3-4ft,then go back to the opposite side etc.If you do walk the roof it could add some other variables to this,it will not be as easy as walking the side,you will have to watch that you don’t drag your hose or paint suit into your work while you spray 😉

    September 24, 2011 at 8:06 pm #33099

    THe universal is much more user friendly than energy pro,if you use accelerator in the universal is very fast for quick jobs.Lesonal glamour clear is awesome for completes and one of the nicest clears in the akzo lineup.

    September 24, 2011 at 7:28 am #33092

    When was the last time your exhaust fan and stack were cleaned out?That could be all that you need to get some more airflow along with fresh filters.The universal is a pretty good clear(I swear it is re-packaged ACII) it can be used for small jobs or allovers,thicker than proair and nicer to spray.I don’t know it you can use ACIII hardener and activators with it but I suppose it is possible.

    September 20, 2011 at 4:31 am #33022

    Soooo who is the site pro now :p :rofl :rofl PRO DINGER :rofl

    September 17, 2011 at 11:14 pm #32976

    [quote=”bloverby” post=22475]I ain’t fighting a clear coat lift, Sealer bit me is the @$$. I was able to wipe mine off with thinner. :whistle: :blush:[/quote]
    Were not talking about you Bloverby :p

    September 17, 2011 at 8:28 pm #32970

    [quote=”5LEater” post=22461]you americans be greatful you can still spray solvent.[/quote]
    Whats your point :wak The only thing I miss about solvent is the speed,I sprayed it for 23 years,as far as color match and blending waterborne is better.If he was using waterborne he wouldn’t have had all the wrinkling problems :deadhorse

    September 17, 2011 at 3:56 am #32960

    Read #5.

    September 17, 2011 at 3:29 am #32957

    Damn must be an echo in here 😛

Viewing 15 posts - 961 through 975 (of 1,510 total)