Jayson Munro
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- September 17, 2011 at 3:24 am #32954
It can be avoided by.1.dont sand thru your clear.
2.spot prime your burn thrus.
3.spot seal your burn thrus.
4.use a hardener in your base coat.
5.apply one quick coat of 100% over reduced ready to spray clear BEFORE you apply base coat.
Now all you can do is stop and sand it out,spot prime,sand and try again or clear over it to seal it off and start over.September 17, 2011 at 3:04 am #32949Your fresh base ate into your bumper that you painted and cleared before right?
September 17, 2011 at 2:51 am #32947Try opening your fluid and fan all the way open and move in closer to the panel.
September 16, 2011 at 6:21 am #32938Seriously why kid yourself,if you think you are going to cover up scratches with base coat you are in for a shock.What happens when all the solvent evaporates from your basecoat?the scratches will still be there,it might take a week to 6 months but they will still be there.Old saying,”what there when start there when finished” there is no short cut for pre paint prep done properly.
There is also a huge difference between 320 on a machine vs hand sanding with 320,the latter will be too coarse.A good rule of thumb is either 400 wet or( dry on machine) if you are sealing(any color) or 600 wet or( dry on a machine) if you are not sealing.September 16, 2011 at 4:22 am #32935[quote=”Charlie” post=22432][quote=”sagikun” post=22394]you can get a oversized hood with heavy hail damage perfectly straight using just a d.a.?[/quote]
What is an oversized hood?…do you use those when the fender gaps are too wide?…can you get an undersized hood for those tight gaps? :P[/quote]
:rofl :rofl :clappySeptember 15, 2011 at 4:50 am #32910[quote=”bondomerchant” post=22411][quote=”Jayson M” post=22410]This coming from the guy who tapes door handles and moldings when he installs a new door or skin 😛 :rofl :rofl :rofl[/quote]
this from the guy that almost drowned in his urethane wave :p :p :p[/quote]
😡 :sick: :rofl :rofl :roflSeptember 15, 2011 at 4:27 am #32906This coming from the guy who tapes door handles and moldings when he installs a new door or skin 😛 :rofl :rofl :rofl
September 12, 2011 at 9:43 am #32861Whitesnake is dead on and gave you good advice,don’t get carried away.Ok this is the best way to do a job like this in the future.Install your hood,scuff both fenders for blending and paint the bumper(off the car) the same time that you do the front end.When you blend color you want to kick color just over the tops of the fenders and front of the fenders where the bumper mounts.This will give you a smooth transition and there will be no miss match that needs to be touched up later. 😉
September 12, 2011 at 2:33 am #32846With a sensitive substrate give it 10 mins or so,for just a wet bed you can base instantly depending on materials.
September 12, 2011 at 2:14 am #32843Just a thin medium wet coat,but be careful,being over reduced will have a tendency to run easier.This was reccomended to me by a Glasurit rep many years ago for a wet bed for blending metallics or to settle down some wrinkling after your area is repaired.
September 11, 2011 at 9:36 pm #32839Before you apply any base after you have made your repair take some ready to spray clear,Over reduce it 100% and put one coat over the whole area.This will act like a barrier coat,then apply your base and you will be fine.
September 10, 2011 at 10:22 pm #32825I really like that old GTO,very nice car.SO is it pretty rough or just need a quickie fix up?
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