Jayson Munro
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Tork premium blue towels in the box for final wipe,white shop towels for everything else.
I don’t see the point either,just an added expense to the paint shop :deadhorse
Looks a little light and not red/brown enough,but it could be due to the sprayout card not having enough paint on it.I would do another sprayout card and this time spray it with your gray sealer or spi epoxy to mimic your real application,that will be the true test.Man dupont is like painting with koolaid :p That would be a very difficult color to panel paint,just saying :silly:
Sorry man I disagree,been painting for 25 years,water for 2.5 yrs.The only way you might have a difference is the metallics lay different in relation to how the bumper is on the rack when you paint it vs how it mounts on the car.I have used at least a dozen different paint systems over the years and I am super anal and I have never had a problem :stoned
That is a wives tale,the reason bumpers,moldings/door handles, don’t match on a new car is they are painted in different places and times at the factory.When I spray a bumper with a car they match bang on.Lay the bumper the same as it is going to be mounted on the car when you spray it and you will be fine.
kill this thread already :sick:
Very interesting indeed,been spraying sikkens since 88.Keep us posted,but it sounds to me like you might have had a bad clear hardener or something.doesn’t sound base related.
I just got a bulletin about putting on the basecoat to heavy due to not enough reduction.They are suggesting now with metallics and pearls to go 30-40% so you will have a thinner coat of paint that flashes faster due to being thinner no matter what the RH is.What % are you reducing?Apparently AW can skin over if you are blasting the crap out of it with air,so this could be part of the problem.Was the proper flash time used in regards to sealer,base,clear application?How long are you waiting before assembly?Are you baking your jobs?Do you use air blowers?Just a hunch,can’t say I have had that problem in the last 2.5 yrs we have been using it,we average 50-65 cars a week.
There used to be a little paint company in the UK called ICI autocolor,back in the early 90’s it was very popular in western Canada.They had a solvent bc system,single stage system,and aqua base.Then around 2000 or so PPG bought them out and added them to their line up and changed the name to nexa autocolor.I am sure they bought them for there waterborne technology.Now is one better than the other?Not sure but nexa is there topshelf brand,so coverage might be a little better due to more pigments.Is it the best out there,maybe,but two dealerships in my area changed from nexa to another brand.
I would say you are probably fine,the reason ppg bought ICI was for there aquabase(now called nexa aquabase plus)so they could make there own version.Lessonal and sikkens WB activator are the exact same thing with a different label 😉
I wonder if its limco 4100 or dc92,or fc710/720 :p :stoned
As for your color match here are a couple of reasons,your last coat a 5psi,that is way to low,should be at least 20-30 psi for a reduced pressure gun.If it was resprayed by the previous owner who knows if it was a quality base coat with a good rep for match,possible over pour on the color with a toner,or a cheap brand of base known for poor match.Just a couple of things to think about.
Try ford UG,toyota 070,065,Gm wa560Q,nice clean pearl whites with the xyrilac pearl toner and thats it.
Only the cheap non automotive plastic has this problem,but back in the 80s when plastic was first being used it was an issue.If you use a name brand like norton,carbo,usc or 3m the plastic is marked paint this side.It is a non issue in this day and age. You mask the jambs,cover the vehicle with plastic,cut the plastic where you are painting and tape down the edges,no worries.
If I need it I just do it and let the office guys get the supp for it,usually let them know after it is done :rofl