Jayson Munro
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Yes of course,it is sikkens top clear recommended for use over autowave.There was another member here using enviro who tossed ppg clears and is using it.
http://www.sikkens.net/sikkenscr/US/Products/Pages/AutoclearSuperior2502Pack.aspxHave you guys ever tried sikkens superior 250 2 pack clear?I find it a dream to spray with great gloss and hold out.
I am the opposite,I prefer slow in a downdraft on almost everything except one or two panels.If you use slow you can spray it how you want and not have to put it on thick so it will flow.Flow is a bad thing,you should spray it how you want so you don’t need to rely on flow.For me using a slower mix will allow me to not work as hard,the clear sprays easier.looks better,has no dieback,will flash faster due to a thinner wetter coat.Try it,it might help.We only bake for 35 ins at 140,165 might be too hot.
I have a couple of questions.Are you using any accelerator?What speed of hardener?How long are you baking?If you are not in a low voc area you can change to a more user friendly clear Like concept 2021,dc 3000/4000 global 893/894.If you are using fast on a horizontal surface it will dieback,you could try a shorter bake cycle also.Let us know…..
Sorta 😛
Ok if you repaired your quarter and the repair is close to the door yes I would blend.I would not blend the tailgate or other quarter unless you are getting paid for it by insurance or customer pay.Not sure how much experience you have but blending a tri stage is different than just a regular color.Also I tried to explain about sealer or primer when doing a sprayout,the card must mimic what you do on the car,or the color will be different.I have no idea how good your system is with color match,so I will stop there.Do a search here about doing a tri stage blend,I wrote it out for someone but am too lazy to do it again :blush: Good luckOk lots of questions here I will try to sort it out for you.New bumper should be selaed(pretty sure kia will be raw plastic) possibly your bodywork too if you have any slight burn thrus(if not finish sand 500-600) and go to paint.If you have the option of a sealer pic a medium gray .You should always put whatever sealer color or ground coat on your spray out card,that way you can reproduce it,the color won’t be the same if you don’t.I would use a ground coat(pick something from your toner system like a red oxide and tint it so it is in the ballpark) this will make your red cover quicker.It sounds kind of hacky but if all you are doing is the quarter and bumper,blend the rear door and don’t worry about the hatch or other quarter unless you get time to blend it all.Most bumpers don’t match at all(go look how close the front bumper matches) so I wouldn’t even worry about the match.Anything else and just ask :cheers
Welcome to the site,lots of guys here to help you with your questions :cheers
I cant see why someone would do that to you,must be a glitch,contact jimmo
Hi Ben,I have never used a side exit downdraft or know anyone that has,they seem quite popular though so I can’t see them being bad.I thought the spraybooths job was to remove paint from the panel LOL would have been fun to bug that salesman.I can tell you that a raised floor booth is a pain in the ass to work in(I use one for 40plus hrs a week) the grated floor can be hard on the feet and knees while masking and working.If you have the choice I would pick one with 3 rows of grates in the middle and nothing on the sides,it will make your feet much happier.I would look at a semi downdraft similar to the one that jimmos dad put in his shop,I have sprayed in these types and found they work really well.I would also consider and older crossflow that has been pressurized and uses an airmakeup unit so you don’t suck from the shop.My tech rep and I were having a conversation one day about how good one of these old crossflows thats pressurized with heat would work killer with waterborne.The dodge dealership put in a new junair booth a couple of years ago and I know one of the bodymen there and I stopped in to see it.It sure looked impressive but it should be for over $100,000,I think there are better options out there that will give you more bang for the buck.Not sure if that helps but will give you some options.
By the way it was nice to meet you the other night at the aluminum class,would have been nice to actually have a good visit and not be so rushed,hopefully next time :cheers
Pick away I have thick skin in north america its ok for positive pressure in your booth :stoned I get it ,you guys cant.Sometimes I jamb parts others I do in side and out at the same time.I just did a tri stage caddy new door replacement and blend the whole side inside and out at the all at once …….
I’m not sure they still make 6000 :stoned Imron 5000 means its single stage,6000 means bc/cc.The new stuff is imron EB (elite base),Imron can be a real pain in the ass to spray,it does not spray smooth and it looks chunky and peely,thats just the way it is.Tell your friend to find another product,imron is uber expensive and not user friendly at all and buffs like concrete.
I guess your right Ding,I had forgotten about that…….but I’m not in Europe 😉
No worries,I can see that idea working for your intake filters like you describe for either booth.But like I said before a positive pressure booth will push air out on all your door seals or leak areas etc unlike an old negative pressure crossflow booth that will suck contaminates inside.I also agree that both styles of spray booths can have dirt problems but a downdraft is more sensitive to being unbalanced which can cause the incoming air to swirl and even pick dirt particles off of the walls and floor and put them on the vehicle.Slight positive pressure is your friend along with good house keeping habits. :cheers
a positive pressure booth will push air/dirt/dust out not suck it in..
There are a couple of very experienced basf users and one rep on the site,I’m sure one of them will be here to help you.