Jayson Munro
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How so?Too thick,hard to spray,dies off,dries to fast, doesn’t stay open long enough,why does it suck?I have heard the opposite and very curious to try it. :kofee
You narrowed down your best choice for your envvironment by saying you have a crossflow booth.I would use 2021 with dcx61 and then pick your reducers to match your job size.If you are doing a small job there is also a faster hardener but forget the #.Most of these clears work better with lots of airflow from a downdraft booth,but I did thousands of jobs with 2021 in a pressurized crossflow with great results.You might also check into the shopline euroclear,have heard great things about it.
I have not talked to one painter who likes these clears,I tried the 750 and didn’t like it very finicky.You are better off with the concept clears like 2021 or 2002.Not sure I would trust it over solvent as it was designed for waterborne.Just doing a sprayout is not a good enough test,it could delam after a year or 2,not right away.
nope,he didn’t ask 😛
Basf is not a true waterborne,still solvent toners with a waterborne binder,also has to be mixed on a machine twice a day.Slow to dry,hard to repair,not user friendly.
Enviro base has good color match,true waterborne, only needs a couple of shakes before you pour,fast drying,easy to use,good metallic control.I would also put money on ppg being less expensive compared to basf.Insurance companies pay us more time and give us an extra blend panel if we need it.Also it depends what paint system you are using,since we started using Autowave over two years ago I haven’t done a let down panel since and do it on the fly,tri stages are a snap.The joys of doing anywhere form 3-8 jobs a day really take a toll on your spray outs :p .
Smooth nailed it,poor prep on bodywork and feathering out the paint.Overnight is sometimes not enough time for primer to shrink,but in a prduction shop time is money,everything has to go yesterday,that is why you have to take extra time to finish filler and old paint in the right grit.If all you did was sand the primer and mask, it goes back to the bodymans problem.Bodyfiller and pourable polyester putty are compatible and can be mixed together to change the consistency,done that for years and it is not the problem.So what happend is you prepped it for paint and sanded the primer smooth,then the primer continued to cure and sink back into the scratches and minor low spots leaving you with your problem.The next time you prime something leave some in the bottom of the can and see what happens to it over the next few days and you will be surprised at how much it shrinks,every brand does it.HTH :cheers
Sikkens autoclear superior 250,Lesonal glamour clear,Sikkens HS plus,PPG 2021.Wow 3 year old post :lol1
So debeer is owned by valspar,is valspar there own company or are they owned by someone else??Maybe for you guys across the pond can answer this,Debeer is made in holland so is it maybe a knock off of Sikkens,they sound very similar.Sounds like they have a good color match,Andy T pumps out an unreal amount of jobs a week and doesn’t have an issue.I want to try this stuff,is it available in western Canada?
I would shave down your runs with a nib file or a single edge razor using it like a wood plane to shave the majority of the run off.Then go to your sand paper and a small block to finish leveling it(I use a hockey puck cut into different sizes) and get ready for paint.Don’t sand across the run you want to sand with the length of the run to knock it down.
Nice progress,I would be tempted to use a good spray polyester on that project and board it out with 120,knock down the scratches with 180 and reprime with a urethane 2k primer.Good work :cheers
This is a good tip,do not put filler over paint,you should have a nice transition from filler/putty an inch or two of bare metal then your feathered paint if you did not strip the panel.Really old school and picky but it makes a difference,it will save you from shrinkage and sand scratch swelling.It makes me cringe when I see mud over paint and nice 40grit scratches all over the paint and guys just trying to cover it up with primer :sick: :sick:
I have heard great things about it but have never used it,Andy T uses there waterborne and loves the stuff.It is made in Holland and is based on latex technology,not solvent toners with a waterborne binder like basf,dupont,SW.I have heard it is very similar to sikkens autowave,if it was available in my area I would use it.Sikkens has many colors that do not have variants and the match is bang on.
Do a search for cromax here,there is a painter on the site(ryanbrown999) who used cromax for a couple of years and knows that product inside and out.He will have some insight for you,I have never sprayed cromax so I’m not familiar with it.
Looks good Gomer 😛 I did a 2002 chevy silverado this week with a WE 5405 not WA,never seen that before,had to phone the color lab for a formula in autowave with no dice,so we did a camera shot shot and it worked very well.I had a 2001 gmc that was orange but the tag said WA9260 which was red…too funny. :cheers