Jayson Munro
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You dont actually believe your paint rep do you :wak
It is a high end product,you should not notice a big differnce.
I use first gen sata rp,sata 3000rp,and sata 4000rp all with a 1.4 fluid tip.I have the fluid and fan controls wide open and spray at 31-33 psi about 3-4 inches from the surface with 75% overlap,close and fast baby :stoned .I’m kind of biased,been using rp’s for 9 years,before that was a sata jet90,and before that was a sata h jet,on my 3rd decade of spraying 😡 .
That procedure sounds ridiculous :whistle: I always get blend time into the next panel from the insurance company,it is quicker in the long run.If you have a color mismatch and have to redo it your profit goes out the window,so what is the point of a butt match :wak .You can cheat by burning the clear into the sail panel or using a bodyline for a cutoff on the rocker if you can’t clear the whole panel(clearing the whole panel is best).Even on tricky colors I always tint to blend,sounds like your company needs to get with the times.
If you are still using an LPH-400 for proair that is your problem for no film build,it worked fine for me with a 1.4 rp and 2 coats,never had a problem with fisheyes.ACIII or HS+ needs A 35 min bake at 140F with slow,if you use a faster activator it will reduce bake time.ACIII with rapid activator and accelerator is plenty fast for air dry,HS+ is awesome for big jobs.Trust me I used both of those clears for 10 years before switching to water and superior.ACIII is better than energy pro250 IMHO but everyone is different.
Good work :cheers congratulations :clappy
Nice work Darren :clappy
We all know why they were having dieback and slow to dry problems with no heat :p Energy pro is a fast dry low voc clear and IMO is not that nice,it will get the job done and thats it.The choice for reducers does not help the fact that it dries very fast,it does not stay open very long.I have a hard time doing a complete side with it as it sets up fast(our booth flows in the area of 12,000-14,000cfm)using slow.I mainly use it for a bumper cover or a 2 panel job,and superior for everything else.ACIII is fine as long as you never use rapid activator on a horizontal surface.With the HS+ and ACIII you have more choices for reducers and you can mix it to suit your needs.If I didn’t have to use energy pro and could use HS+….well you know the answer.It says in the tech sheet that energy pro will go over ABP solvent but I would not try it if changing out the hardeners.Lesonal glamor clear is also very nice but it depends what you want to do in your shop.If you are a speed demon and turbo up your clear all the time and do 10 jobs a day stick to ACIII with rapid,and accelerator and you will be golden,bet everyones clear will die off a bit if you turbo it up.You can speed up Autobase plus if you use lesonal or utech reducers instead of high performance reducers(too much acetone= slow flash time),something to try,thats what I did when I was using it.
NO you can’t put superior clear over solvent,your rep is wrong.Don’t bother switching clears,when you have your booth working get some ACIII for fast jobs and HS+ for completes.Energy pro is not your answer.When you change out the hardener in energy pro it slows it down and it is nicer to spray.
Yup the superior 250 poster in the mixing room says light first coat and the tech sheet says medium closed coat,basically all the droplets are connected,and it is a thin med wet coat(achieved by spraying close and fast for your first coat).When I was at the training center the head guru said just put on 2 wet coats of superior,as it looks better than the coat and a half.I’m surprised that info came from your rep,maybe you should show him the tech sheet :rofl
Maybe you mean a closed medium coat,much different than a light dry coat.The light coat/tack coat was used with low solids clears so they didnt end up on the floor,but not needed with todays clears.My tech sheet says two single wet flowing coats with 5-10 mins flash time, not a light dry coat followed by a wet coat,superior is one closed medium coat,then one flowing coat.If you put your first coat on dry you will have texture that a second wet coat will not fix,you will not reach your proper mil build and could have delam problems down the road,this clear has only been around for a year,lets see what happens 5 years down the road,spray how ever you like but it is the opposite of the info I have….Tech sheet is here,scroll down to page 4 http://www.globalsafetynet.com/akzonobel/pdfs/akzo_373_english.pdf
Yes I have read the tech sheets 5L.If that works for you (light dry coat then a wet coat) good for you,but that is not reccomended,your first coat should look like your last with an HS clear.It was not my idea to switch out the hardener,that came from the Sikkens training center in vancouver,and it does make a difference.
It is a fast clear,not real nice to spray with it’s dedicated hardener.If you use superior 250 hardener instead it improves sprayability.I would never use it for a complete,the biggest I would use it for would be a complete side with slow reducer,any bigger and you are screwed.It would be great for bike parts,or for doing a fender and bumper job.
You MUST wash all panels with soap and water to neutralize the soda,very difficult to get clean.Once clean and dry it would be better to use 80-120 on your sander to put some tooth on the panels for epoxy,180 is too fine.
Quickest way is to spray the chevelle base clear one day then let it sit.Day 2 mask out your stripes,scuff inside the lines and shoot them with utech 200 single stage with 100% flat agent instead of 200 blender….done.Now keep in mind this will not be under the clear and it would be extremly difficult to do it that way with a matt clear.