Jayson Munro
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
Depending on what product you used you could wait 30 mins and lightly scuff with some norton foam backed 800 grit paper on the rough areas,tack,and shoot color.Next time use a slower hardener/reducer to make it lay smoother.Could be other variables like your gun,temp,etc.
Very good advice from everyone,I would like to add a couple of things.If you can do your sprayout when you are edging parts or when the vehicle shows up you are ahead of the game.If you are trying to get the color right on a friday afternoon at 4:45pm it can be tough :deadhorse Try to do your tinting in the morning if possible,you will be sharper then.Also be very careful with colors that cancel each other,this can cause metamerism(same color appearing different under different lighting) Always tint to blend,it will be faster in the long run,I have seen people spend hrs tinting just to get a butt match.Try to get your color tinted in 20 mins,after that amount of time has passed it becomes more difficult.Sikkens has an excellent tinting course at there training center,it is 4 days long and very intense but worth it,your paint company should have something also.When looking at your variants and your sprayout card use a 3m sungun or daylight…it is worth every penny,the first variant that looks good is the one to go with,don’t look at them for hrs.Tinting is definiately an accuired skill,but keep working at it and take as many courses as you can.Also if you have a lady that works in the shop and you are stumped have her look at the color and ask what she sees,women have a better eye for color than men.Also when looking at your sprayout card ask your self this,”the car is bluer/slightly greener”(can be redder,bluer,yellower etc)than my spray out,this will put you in the right direction for the right toner,95% of the time the answer is in your formula,try to stick with the toners listed.
When doing metallics keep in mind a coarser metallic will darken it,a fine metallic will lighten it,and white will kill the metallics.The side tone and flop is also something to think about :compsmash :p
Very impressive work,you are very talented :cheers I like the vagina one too :p I think you should do one up for dinger and send it to him :rofl :rofl
You can spray utech 4.0 clear at about 28psi with a 1.3rp,it is not a high solid clear,but a medium solid and it dries quick, so you will be ok.Your set up looks great but I would ditch the princess auto digital gauge and get something better like a devilbiss digital,offshore has them behind the counter.You might want to look into a large cage fan or a 16-18 tubeaxil fan if you can afford it.Let us know how it works out.Also if you find the 4.0 clear a little on the fast side you can put in about 5-10% slow reducer.4.0 will be a great garage clear,I always sprayed it with a 1.4.
Of course you can cut it back,but that is not the optimum setup,sorry I disagree but that is why this site is great.I spray Sikkens Superior 250 with a Rp 2000,3000,4000,with a 1.4 sometimes a 1.3 when it is cold in the winter.But in the summer time it gets up to 37C/100F and there is no way you will spray a complete with a 1.2 with superior or any other sikkens clear.Everybody sprays differently and what works for me might not work for you or him,you just have to get comfortable.
Not working for me either Andy,hopefully they will get it fixed.
It depends what materials you are using,spraying sikkens or u-tech like he is using would be next to impossible with a 1.2,I even find a 1.3 to small but to each his own.This has been beat to death but sata recomends running there gun wide open for best performance,if the gun is too fast get a smaller tip.I run a 1.4 in all my rp’s and they work fine for me but everyone sprays different.There is a learning curve and you will figure it out,once you are experienced you will be able to adjust your technique to compensate for speed without dialing in the fluid…..Now with that said old bondo will chime in :clappy :rofl
You have a couple of choices,either get a sata adam gauge or a good gauge like a devilbiss at the gun.A sata rp 3000 with a 1.3 will work best at 32-34 psi using sikkens HS materials.Really who cares about overspray as long as you are atomizing the material and the you can get the overspray out of your spray area.You need to be careful with your wall regulator,depending on the length of you air hose you can have a pressure drop as much as 20psi between the wall and gun reg,30 psi on the wall reg will leave you with a job that looks like corn on the cob 🙂 Now you can see the difference between a slow hvlp gun(iwata) vs a Rp.You will get it figured out 😉
Welcome to the world of light metallics. What kind of paint are you using?Did you check the variants?Did you do a sprayout card?Did you do a dropcoat?Solvent or waterborne?
Here a couple of quick fixes,re do the bumper and turn up your air pressure to lighten it,or scuff the fenders and blend color into them and clear.98% of the time bumpers do not match the rest of the car so don’t worry about it 🙂Why don’t you go down and help Jim C for awhile,his stuff looks awesome…seriously check out his website 🙂
That old chevy looks very nice Barry
Nice job painter :clappy I like your booth too :rock
Very nice Jimmo,tough to beat a semi-downdraft booth,and you don’t have to cut up your floor for a pit :rock How big is the air makeup unit? Million or million and a half?
Chris I wasn’t sure if you were using a fast clear or not,I think hpc-15 is there speed clear but not sure about SW products,haven’t used much of the stuff.I was just throwing the term speed clear out there,when you are production using a speed clear or accelerator can cause loss of gloss.I know back in the 80’s and 90’s sherwin base needed lots of flash time or you would get dieback issues,but I’m sure things have changed.
5L is on to something here,Sw awx is still a solvent base coat system using a waterborne binder to make it compliant.The only other base coat I would try 250 on would be something based on latex technology like sikkens(ppg enviro base,nexa aqua base plus,Debeer etc)You could do some test panels and throw them out in the elements but that takes time.One other thing to think about is anytime you use a speed clear on a horizontal surface it can die back.Your heatlamp on the area after it is sprayed with no airflow could also be to blame.Just something to think about,hope you get it figured out.