Jayson Munro
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I just started using the tekna 1.4 with a 7E7 compliant cap for autowave basecoat only.I have all three Rp models to chose from,so that is what I use for clear,mainly the 4000rp.Proair is a low solids fast air dry clear,if you use a hvlp with a 1.3 it will overatomize it and you will be left with a thin film build that dries too fast.When I used it(not available here anymore) I would shoot it with my first gen rp with a 1.4 at about 24-25psi and it worked fine for me.You can put in about 5-10% slow or extra slow reducer to help sprayability when it is hot.Sikkens clears like to have airflow for about 20 mins minimum,so keep your booth running after you are done spraying.If I was back spraying autobase plus I would use ACIII for the quick jobs or HS+ for completes or larger jobs,it has a much nicer look to it.Like I said in previous posts sikkens likes a larger fluid tip(1.4rp or compliant)to work the best.
I’m with Ryan,pro air,ACIII,and HS+ all work better with a 1.4 compliant/rp spray gun not hvlp.I have had the 4000RP for the last 5 months and it is much different than the 3000rp,the 4000rp lays down a super smooth finish.
On the flip side I have been using a 3000 1.4HC hvlp for the last 2 years with autowave and it worked alright,but I had to work at some of the tougher colrs with silver dollar metallics in them(888EC toner) I have been trying a devilbiss tekna with a 1.4 and I am blown away at how much easier it is to spray those tougher colors.So Ben the regular 1.4 in the 4000hvlp might be better than the 1.4HC,but if you are loving the Tekna why change.I can’t believe how much better it sprays Autowave,and the fan is that much nicer.So Thanks to Ryan for peaking my interest in the tekna,but for clear and single stage it is RP all the way.Why on earth would you want a 1.3wsb Rp for clear?That tip is designed for waterborne basecoat not clear,get a regular 1.3 or 1.4 RP 4000 for clear.
Hey thanks for the write up Lild :clappy You are one up on me,I have never used the 4000 hvlp but it looks just as nice as the Rp.PM Ryan,he can give you the name of the site in the UK where he got his Rp. 😉
I use CBP 250 and it works well,but not as nice as the old colorbuild plus.If you are doing a complete you need extra slow activator,it flashes real fast.As far as being used as a primer surfacer I have not used it(I just spray) but the guys in the shop say it is the same as the old colorbuild.
Energy pro when mixed with energy pro hardener is not very nice,kind of thick and dries fast,designed for crossflow booths.But on the flip side if you mix energy pro with superior 250 hardener it is completely different and nice to spray and air dries very fast.
I very rarely tint my sealer,generally I just mix shades of gray and use medium gray 60% of the time.
Superior 250 is the absolute best low voc clear on the market,once you see it,and spray it you will agree.My only negative is the loss of CR wash primer,now we have these stupid panel wipes for bare metal.There is a real need for a fast drying low voc epoxy or etch primer,this will come back and kick all of these big companies in the balls when stuff starts rusting 👿 👿
I have not had any issues with reds not being clean enough,everything has been blendable.I work in a shop with 2 painters and 16 body men and we pump out 60-100 cars a week,plus restorations of classics,big rigs and whatever else can fit through the door :rofl So we have seen our fair share of reds 😉
Any other questions??Cruising right along,looks very nice so far ding :clappy
Hey canuck good score on the 3000rp;) The sata jet 90-2 is a reduced pressure spray gun,it is basically a glorified primer/sealer gun,not at all like the old jet 90.
Diamont is a decent system,but one thing to remember with any polyester base coat is that slow reducer is your friend when it comes to blending.The last time I used it was 10 years ago with a GTI with a 1.4 tip.Make sure you put on medium wet coats,dry is not good,if you do it can cause adhession problems.My last coat I would increase distance and slow down a little to even out metallics if necessary.
Did you phone the ppg color lab? I have done this quite a bit with Sikkens,they will do a lab match for me with older colors(muscle car)with great results,depending on how much time you have?
Depends on what products you are spraying(check your TDS sheets)but yes for clear you can use anything from a 1.2,1.3,1.4 in an rp3000 and it will work great for you. 😉
That is partly true,but depending on how long your hose is in the booth you can have a pressure drop of 20psi or more from the wall reg to the end of the airline,also you will not have the volume of air at that low of a pressure.
If your gun is atomizing properly and you have good spraying technique you will have very little flow out,Why?Your paint will be put on smooth.On the flip side if you put on thick wet coats at a lower pressure depending on flow out you can have runs,solvent pop,dieback,etc.That is why you want to control the paint,you don’t want the paint to control you(runs etc) make sense??I think you might be better off adjusting your wall regulator to 80psi and then dial in your gauge to desired psi,or if you have the digital gauge leave it wide open and adjust your pressure at the wall until your gun gauge reads what you want.40 psi at the wall will not give you enough volume of air IMO ;)You want to control the paint,not have it control you.If you get in the habit of relying on “flowout” for a nice job it can kick you in the balls,atomization is where it is at;)
Painter is spraying all ppg products and solvent basecoat,his settings will be different than yours.There are a couple of sikkens guys on here that use a tekna,so maybe they can chime in.I would think for clear it would be at least 25-28psi? Also are you spraying at 22 psi at the gun or 45psi,your post is a little confusing 😛
Well if you go to the top of the page I mentioned the need for accelerator :p When it comes to paint only deal with Randy at Offshore,he is an old painter with 20 years experience and he knows what he is talking about,the other guys except perry the owner are just counter guys.They don’t have time to ask these questions they just assume you are using a booth.So now you are prepared for the next time 😉
One thing to think about is low overspray really true? Now if you are spraying a complete or whatever in your garage an hvlp is going to take longer vs using a reduced pressure gun.The difference in time per coat can result in more overspray with the hvlp vs the reduced pressure gun due to the fact you will be spraying longer with the hvlp.Unfortunately your LPH 400 is going to be useless in our area due to all products(EVEN SW)are now low voc high solids,and a 1.3 hvlp will make it difficult to achieve good results.For myself I like a 1.4rp or 3000rp to spray single stage,but I am a fast sprayer with a heated booth.Like ryan said you might be better off converting your lph for about half the price of the $400rp.If you want a 3000rp I think you would be more suited to a 1.3
Utech 2.8 is even more high solids than 3.5,so I wouldn’t even try it if I were you in a garage.Now 3.5 can work very well but you need to put 1 oz of 994 accelerator per sprayable litre or it will be slow(did you do that :P) in an air dry evvironment with little air flow.Try to get out of the habit of thinking that if you aprayed brand x this way it should work with brand y,if you need help over the phone before you spray next time PM me.Good luck next time.