Jayson Munro
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I have a rep and warehouse in Calgary that sells it,also in Vancouver.If you like I can make a phone call and find some info for you and I will PM you.As far as the booth goes,just find and air makeup and install it on you r crossflow and convert it to a semi-downdraft,not hard at all and it will be cheaper than a new booth and work just as good 😉
If I were you I would look into Matrix Low VOC solvent system,they have variants as well,color match is supposed to be decent.You could also get an airmake up installed on the booth,that would make life easy.
He is not talking about having difficulties in blending silver,he is having trouble with the clear changing the color on his blend panel making it look a tad darker.Too much clear can cause this,or a clear with a slight yellow tinge to it.
We have been using u-tech for the last 11 years at our shop.They have 200(urethane) 3.8(polyurethane) 3.5(low voc polyurethane,polybase plus (polyester basecoat with hardener).They have all the factory colors and imron and fleet formulas as well.I have nothing but good things to say about this system.We use it on big rigs,cars etc,it has never let us down.The 3.8 polyurethane single stage is the nicest I have ever used in my career.Our shop uses sikkens on our high dollar jobs,but you would never know utech is such a bargain,no sacrifice in quality what so ever.
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=19235]Did Bondo send it to ya?[/quote]
:rofl :rofl :rofl :clappyLooks good man;) That job has Utech 3.8 single stage ford code: UA writen all over it :rock
Don’t bake energy pro for more than 20 mins at 120F,you are very lucky :clappy Also when using accelerator lv and fast reducer in superior 250 your bake time will be reduced.When using energy pro with superior 250 hardener mix it at the 3:1:1 ratio,don’t ask me how I know:P
When you are doing a blend the correct way is to apply your first coat of clear just past your blend.Then apply your second coat over the complete panel.The best way to describe it is like a swimming pool,the deep end looks like a different color compared to the shallow end,so the more clear you put on can change the color.Every course I have been to teaches this,but I very rarely do it :p
Nice job darren 😉
Well probably not ding,that’s how it starts :sick:
Proair LV and Energy pro 250 are the same clear with a different label 😉 If you use the superior 250 hardener in it it is not a bad clear.
I hate to say it but my supplier started selling the low voc matrix base coat and are having real good luck with it.They have full color documentation and variants and it sprays and blends like the old solvent base(are you listening stone;) I haven’t used it but the rep I talked to today is based in Calgary and he is going to give me some Matrix Euroclear that is low voc to try….so what the heck :kofeeThat is a real squaw basher :p
I like it Jack :clappy
Get some heat in your booth and then tell me that ACIII with XP hardener and rapid activator is slow :rofl :rofl Are you using spot and panel activator in your primer?Maybe I have been using Sikkens for too long but I seriously doubt SW has better colormatch IMO :kofee
I always go with what sata suggests for sikkens.With that said they are reccomending a 1.2-1.3 fo the 4000rp and I chose the larger 1.3.Sata reccomended 1.3-1.4 for the first gen and 3000rp(I used a 1.4).I don’t know how sata measures but there sizes are all over the place.The first gen 1.4 is about the size of a 3000rp 1.3,and the 1.3 4000rp is like a 1.4 3000rp,very strange and like I said the size of the orfice is all over the place, :blink: