Jayson Munro

Forum Replies Created

Viewing 15 posts - 1,171 through 1,185 (of 1,510 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • March 6, 2011 at 1:15 am #29170

    Hey that looks really nice dinger :dnc I like those old trucks,love the color combo too :clappy

    March 5, 2011 at 2:35 am #29080

    :rofl :rofl It’s only a 1.3 that won’t work with SPI :clappy

    March 5, 2011 at 1:52 am #29074

    Actually dinger I don’t want to subject my gun to FC 720….sorry 😛

    March 4, 2011 at 11:04 pm #29068

    Ryan you are bang on with your analysis of the 4000.I have been using a 4000rp for the last 3 months with excellent results.The 3000 is faster but not by much(just depends how close you spray to the panel),the first gen rp and 4000 are similar in finish and speed.I got a better finish with a 1.4 in the 3000 vs.the 1.3.The sweet spot with the 4000 is 31.5-32 psi,and it does have a nicer wider fan,it rerally is a pleasure to spray with and effortless to lay down a nice finish.It would be interesting to use another brand of clear to compare but superior 250 works very nice with the 4000.
    You and your son should do a side by side hairdo comparison :rofl

    March 3, 2011 at 8:02 am #29023

    Your work looks excellent :clappy I’m glad you like the new gun,it sprays 250 nicer than any other gun I have used.Your little guy is sure getting big! Thanks for sharing 😉

    March 2, 2011 at 7:27 am #28977

    I’m thinkig ol Jack is going to put it on along the floor seam and spot paint the edges and send it out with out painting the outside :clappy

    March 1, 2011 at 6:29 am #28931

    I will reduce this time of year for metallics and pearls 20%,solid colors 10%.30% will improve spraying the hard metallics,I still can’t see reducing a pearl 50%,coverage would be an issue and runs.Now when doing a tri stage,your effect color will spray better with 30% and up,666 is very thick.I did a ford expedition code UG white pearl and reduced the effect color 40% and it was easier to spray and went on thnner,so maybe this is what he means.Summer time I go to minimum 30% for a tough metallic with CC,DC,EC.

    February 28, 2011 at 6:41 am #28904

    John Noakes knows his stuff that is for sure 😉 Our supplier does the same thing,hopefully they will offer us the new course as well.Are you in Winnipeg? That is where John is originally from.

    February 28, 2011 at 3:07 am #28887

    Where did you take your course candyman?I took mine at the Vancouver training center.I could see 50% for a tri-stage,but for a regular low hiding color like a red pearl that would be a diaster.Interesting info,let us know what your book says,it has been over 2 years since I took that course.The 1.4 HC stands for hot climate,it doesn’t break it up as much and I think it is slightly larger than a 1.4.

    February 27, 2011 at 11:44 pm #28879

    Application course teaches 30% for difficult metallics and pearls,or up to 50% in the summer.It would be extremely difficult to spray autowave with a 1.3.With the gun he is using it reccomends a 1.4 or 1.5,sata 3000hvlp with a 1.4HC works the best.When it comes to colors containing 888C 888DC 888EC it would be difficult if not impossible to not get a little mottling with a 1.3.Also dropping your pressure 5 psi or so for your control coat with full trigger pull and minimum 12-14 inches from surface and slow passes(but not to slow) will help.For your control coat you need big droplets and you want it to look like the surface is being peppered or rain hitting a sandy beach if that makes sense.Your first coat needs to be wet enough for the metallics to be swimming,second coat is medium wet,then your drop coat.Believe it or not your first coat is just as important for laying out the metallics as your drop coat.For what he has to work with and no help I think Benny is doing a good job,he just has to get in his groove.
    Also Ben when you take out your intake filters and exhaust filters turn on the booth,close the doors and Blow the snot out of the intake ducting,and make sure the pit is not full of dirt/overspray dust.Also check you exhaust stack and fan,it might need a good scrape and clean.After this is done it will make a huge improvement in air movement and flash time.If that is an old devilbiss concept I’m sure there are intake filters on the airmake up unit,don’t forget those too.

    February 20, 2011 at 10:53 pm #28781

    Looks awesome Andy :clappy :cheers

    It can be a real challenge painting in someone elses shop,nice work. :rock

    February 20, 2011 at 10:35 pm #28780

    Well don’t wait for Barry from SPI to give you anything for free either :rofl :rofl :rofl My jobber is great,he gave me 2 gallons of superior and hardener etc and 3 litres of autowave for my chevelle no charge :clappy But the base went bad before I got around to painting it 😛 Our shop is pretty good,we don’t have to pay squat for doing our own cars,unless you are doing a write off every week.Talk to your jobber or rep and tell him it is a show car and it will get attention and they will get some advertising.If they still won’t help you tell em you will use ppg and you are thinking of switching :clappy that might help loosen there belt :lol1

    February 20, 2011 at 10:27 pm #28779

    Hey there is nothing wrong with a crossflow booth,one of my favorite booths was an old devilbiss cross flow that was pressurized and had a 1,000,000 BTU air makeup,I got some damn nice paint jobs out of that old girl :clappy If I had my own shop that is what I would install,simple and it works well with waterborne.Jim I’m wondering if you used the old 250 or this new version? If you add accelerator LV to superior it dries pretty fast and doesn’t affect gloss at all,unlike HS +. Just for kicks why don’t ya post some pictures of your booth 😉

    February 20, 2011 at 9:19 pm #28770

    I saw that too,it was pretty sad 😡 They would have been better off using U-tech,nason,or omni, but instead they used some watered down low quality lacquer,not even close to the real lacquer used back in the day.These shows have all turned into an advertising plug,pretty soon vince from shamwow,and dollars for gold Anthony Sullivan will be hosting horsepower,musclecar,and trucks :stoned On the other hand that big old ford dually that was painted with summit paint looked ok,but who knows what it looked like in person 😛

    February 20, 2011 at 8:40 pm #28765

    I for one have seen superior 250 delam over u-tech polybase and it was done with plenty of flash time.That is a new one on me about use over solvent,like Joe said up here that goes against everything that is taught.My info comes from the Vancouver head instructor John Noakes who has also been teaching there since 84.These instructors all know each other as they meet a couple times a year in Atlanta for a big conference about there training centers,someone should get them on the same page.

    So why is there going to be a couple of clears that are the same??Superior 250 is not slow and air drys just fine,the next day it is not soft.so I don’t see the point of this new clear :stoned

Viewing 15 posts - 1,171 through 1,185 (of 1,510 total)