Jayson Munro
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- May 12, 2014 at 4:38 am #46612
I could see that working in a negative pressure booth but not in a positive pressure booth :kofee
May 9, 2014 at 5:25 am #46593Geez your missing out,sikkens has much nicer sealer and clear(superior 250 2pack,colorbuild sealer) than ppg. :stoned
May 8, 2014 at 4:51 am #46584I have a different opinion,we used hs+ for many years and always stocked the rapid hardener.Accoring to my tech rep and the training center the standard autocryl hardener would take longer to dry and you would have to bake it or else you could still finger print it after a couple of days.We would very seldom use the regular hardener,only in the summer if it was really hot.90% of the time I would use the rapid hardener even for completes,there is enough difference with activators that you can custom tailor the clear to your needs.I used rapid activator and maybe a touch of extratop accelerator for bumpers and 1-2 panels.I would use standard or extra slow activator for larger jobs and completes with no issues,it would still stay open long enough for big jobs.I always used a first gen sata rp with a 1.4 full fan and fluid at 30 psi, so I never had an issue with getting enough material on fast enough before it started to kick.
Always mix it 3:1:1
If you are looking to speed it up use some extra top.Up to 1/2 ounce per sprayable litre,but use caution it can dieback if you use too much
Don’t use rapid activator on a horizontal panel,it can dieback a bit so be careful.
If you are going to air dry your jobs use rapid hardener and a splash of extratop with whatever activator you use.
For flash time I always use the handslick method,when it feels dry and not tacky put on your glory coat.Use a medium first coat,if you put it on too heavy it will run.
If you are looking for a more production orientated clear go to ACIII,or lesonal universal,same clear.
HS + is somewhat like rm DC92 just put it on with a slight bit of texture and it will flow right out ,if you go crazy and try to make it like glass it will be on the floor.Any other questions just ask……. :cheers
May 7, 2014 at 7:02 am #46578HS+ and HS+LV are 2 completely different clears :stoned What do you want to know about it?I sprayed that clear for many years…..
May 5, 2014 at 4:41 am #46565Skip the waterborne cleaner or use it first followed by solvent cleaner.Sounds strange but you need some flashtime after the waterborne cleaner or blow the panel off.Waterborne cleaner can cause fisheyes if coated too soon.If you try without it I bet your problems will go away :stoned
April 30, 2014 at 5:19 am #46524I have been getting gray ones for the last 9 months,no more white left,your jobber must have left over stock.I usually average 5 jobs a day but not unheard of to do much more,that’s why I change suits often.
April 30, 2014 at 4:17 am #46521At least put a couple quick coats of a spray bomb primer on the filler.Wait till you see it in a month,not pretty 😡
April 30, 2014 at 4:07 am #46520The akzo suits are now gray,imo the akzo suits have always been the best,I have been using them since the 80’s .I have tried other brands but always go back to them.You musn’t paint very much my white suit is multi color gray blue in about a week :stoned
April 29, 2014 at 6:46 am #46504Here you go :cheers
http://www.fbs-online.com/Centre/Prod/P_Suits.htmlApril 29, 2014 at 3:10 am #46500Cool Smooth,I look forward to hearing how it works for you,I am tempted to do my friends chevelle with it :kofee
April 26, 2014 at 8:32 pm #46475Kombi putty/lacquer spot putty is a bad idea,as soon as solvent from paint or primer hits the area it will sink and show a low spot.Mechanical or chemical strip is faster in the long run and the customer ends up with a quality repair.
April 24, 2014 at 3:43 am #46435If it takes too long to feather out each chip and block it and your worried about being wavy strip it 😉
April 23, 2014 at 3:57 am #46418What gun and settings,what temp are you spraying at and what temp of reducer are you using?When I used solvent basecoat in a downdraft I always used slow or extra slow depending on the job size no matter what,Thats what it sounds like to me,too fast of a reducer,too high of pressure,too small of fluid tip,any or all of these things.
April 21, 2014 at 3:43 am #46404Keep in mind you use ready to spray clear that is hardened and reduced up to 300%,you are putting on an extremely thin coat compared to a regular coat of clear.When it is this thin it will dry very fast,not sure I would want to tack between every coat but Im sure it would be fine to tack your last one with a bit of caution,a little accelerator added to the mix will help also.
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