Jayson Munro
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Well dinger I got the superior hardener in the energy pro info from the head instructor from the western canada training center.So your rep is out of the loop,so to speak.As far as the hs+lv you could be right,but with sikkens clears the actvator is more than a reducer,it is like a reactive reducer,so there will be more chances of dieback and runs if it is increased,personally I wouldn’t even use that clear let alone play junior chemist.
I also don’t buy what he told you about the superior hardener,the energy pro hardener is fast as hell,and doesn’t stay open very long,superior makes it more sprayable.
Just my 2 cents :kofeeUnderpaid…if you are looking for a quick clear for crash painting check out lesonal universal clear,and for bigger jobs and completes lesonal glamor is nice,HS+ is going to be in the neighborhood of $100 a sprayable quart,so it all depends what you want,but heat will make all the difference.I have never had proair die off so either your base is still wet or something is up,akzo products need heat.
[quote=”ding” post=18216]I heard if you mix it 3:1:1.5 it works nice[/quote]
What clear are you talking about??With sikken clears you do not want to add more activator to the clear,there is no clear Iknow that mixes 3:1:1.5
I also agree with Ryan HS+ LV is crap,that’s why they came out with energy pro 250.I tried HS+ LV it at the training center and it’s just not a very good product,not even in the same league as HS+.
I don’t know maybe you have it fixed now,but you really should get your booth working with some heat,changing the clears is not the answer,there is a learning curve with each one and they all have their quirks.I have sprayed gallons and gallons of it,what do you want to know??Nice gloss can be tricky to spray,it likes lots of air pressure,it can run ,so make sure your first coat is dry to the touch.It is slower than ACIII and I wouldn’t use it in an unheated booth with poor air flow,use in a heated downdraft only.Good clear for completes,has a very nice look to it.Use the rapid autocryl hardener and rapid,med, or slow activator.Can be a little slow for crash painting,all depends how you use it.Narrow down your questions and I will answer them :stoned
First off here is your first lesson,no such thing as a front quarter panel…they are called fenders 😛 From what I can see I think you have a solid project car,but to be sure if you can put it up on a hoist and check the floors and trunk drop offs,wheel wells for rust damage and sub frame for collision damage.Go over every inch of the car with a light and if that checks out you are on your way.If you want to do it your self you will need a large compressor with at least 18cfm to run air tools and a sander,also you need a garage too.If you were to drop it off at a shop you would be looking at $5000-$8000 for driver quality.if you de-trimmed it and stripped it to bare metal yourself that figure would be less.It also depends where you are and what the laror rates are and what your expectations are. Good luck with your project, If you add up the cost of the tools and materials sometimes it is better to just buck up and getsomeone else to do it.
It is the factory color for this car rat,1972GM code: 63 mohave gold,basiclly a dark metallic gold/copper.This is a typical SS big block camaro with no stripes and blacked out tailpanel.He wants it back to original the way it was born from the factory,I just do what the customer wants,not into doing a chip foose style 2 tone :stoned Thanks for the kind words fellas :cheers
I agree with others,if using a hvlp a move up to a 1.4 will help.This way you have bigger droplets and are not overatomizing your basecoat,when this happens the base is drying in the air before it hits the surface causing mottling.On your last coat increase your distance,drop air pressure a couple of psi(but be careful it could darken color) do 50% overlap and slow down slightly,but don’t do a drop coat keep it a little wetter.Hope this makes sense,that is how I used to spray diamont 10 years ago suing a GTI with a 1.4.
Don’t be afraid to send them a detailed bill every month and make sure they pay monthly,no reason for you to sit on all the labor and materials until the end. :clappy
[quote=”rudy49″ post=18089]Boy Jayson you got some job security there. Doing paint and body work on them old cars is a lot of work, yet can be very rewarding when completed. It also helps when the customer understands that quality work doesn’t come cheap. When working on the older stuff do you guys charge the customer by the hour or give them a set price? I’ve given a set price in the past and after I add up all my hours and the price of paint and materials, I’m only working for about $20 an hour if not less. It is good fill in work when the collision jobs arn’t rolling in, but does get in the way when I’m busy. Oh well guess you can’t have it all.[/quote]
All I do is paint them,haven’t done any body work at this shop for a long time,been there 9 years.We have 12 bodymen and a couple of flunkies,2 painters and some office staff.The resto shop is separated from the collision shop,we also do big rigs from major collisions to refinishing.We charge time plus materials on restos and it is not unheard of to have $40,000 and up bills.A 58 ford retractable we did a few years ago was in the neighborhood of $38,000. :blink:
[quote=”Ben” post=18087]Looks good Jayson. That Ram should be a good job. Is there a little banana in the frame?[/quote]
Nope no bananna on the frame,floor is in a ways,it jack knifed with a trailer he was hauling and hit the top of the roof and swung around.That is why the cab and box don’t line up.Job consists of used doors,used door opening/center pillar,new roof.I used to do a large portion of the heavy collision but all I do now is paint for the last few years.I ran the frame bench at another big shopfor 7 years back in the mid 90’s,don’t miss it.This is a side job I am doing at home and painting at work. Most of the jambs were stripped ,new full 1/4’s were installed,He didn’t pay enough for me to strip the jambs complete ,always 2 sides to every story so get the facts straight before you judge the quality.
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As for the colorbuild what are you asking?? If colorbuild plus can be mixed with the new colorbuild 250? The answer is yes but do not mix the old and new hardeners or activators.If you have the old colorbuild plus you can use the new hardener and activator but you must use the new mixing ratio,and vice versa,you can use the new primers with the old hardener and activator as long as you use the old mix ratio.Finally you can mix the old colorbuild plus primer with the new CBP 250, no issues but you should be changed over by now.There is a CBP colorbuild color swatch and all the formulas are on the ecco head,ask your painter or your rep,probably Glen,Scott,or some new dutch guy who was hired to replace Kelly.Yes red oxide colorbuild sealer :stoned My computer suggested a dark yellow sealer but this gold didn’t cover well.So I noticed that this car was redoxide from the factory before the color.So I did a sprayout with the red oxide first and it covered better and made the color more original.Easy way to make it is 2 parts red colorbuild :1 part black colorbuild = instant red oxide :clappy I always try to reproduce what the factory does even on collison jobs,color match seems to be easier IMO.
Here are a few more,no shortage of completes :stoned
Train wreck dodge,needs rocker,center pillar/door opening sectioned,couple of doors,new roof.
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[IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/014-3.jpg[/IMG]40’s fat fendered ford that gets PPG Radiance Kandy orange in waterborne,should be interesting :wak think I will be sick that day.
[IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/017-1.jpg[/IMG]67 barracuda final assembly,owners cousin that helps out in the shop after he finishes his mail route :wak :wak
[IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/018-1.jpg[/IMG]This is just some of the junk we have lying around,there is plenty more that I didn’t feel like uncovering to take pics,enjoy.
Here is an update,Friday night after work I got the jambs on the car sprayed.Then it’s time to hang and align the parts,long block with 180,re-prime,wet block and paint.Seems like it should go fast but you know how it goes :kofee
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[IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/010-3.jpg[/IMG]Looks good dinger :clappy Do you remember back in the mid 90’s when new GM panels for those trucks were dirt cheap?I rebuilt one in 95 and paid $90 for a fender,$125 for a door,$190 for a boxside,hood $200.This brings back memories,those trucks were brand new or a few years old when I started in the trade.Awesome work Ding :cheers
Wow that must be some brand new stuff that you got to test,that is cool,thanks for posting that.I will ask the next time I see a rep,or maybe I will call the training center.I wonder if that will replace energy pro 250??