Jayson Munro
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Looks good Lild :rock Keep on posting vids and such :stoned
The info given is good advice.If you are doing a vehicle the most obvious thing is to make sure it is clean and the jambs and wheel wells are clean.I can vouch for dx-103 ,that is the best thing ever,works really well for a final wipe or to mist on to kill the static. Back in the day when we used a crossflow we used to vacuum out the intake filters and give them a spritz of water to help trap dirt.Also keep the intake area clean if you can.HTH
Yes I have used the 3m transition tape,it is a good idea but it also leaves residue at times or the clear can bridge up to the glued portion of the tape.The best thing I have found is the EZ edger,for about $60 and a roll of 3/4 inch tape that you always have in the shop it is a no brainer.Once you use it there is no need for foam tape or the transition tape IMHO.
I use to use the foam tape but I hate the glue residue that it can leave sometimes.I think a better way to do it is to use the EZ edger,it will fold the edge over on a regular roll of tape and it leaves a soft edge.Check it out on the web if you can,Ryan has a way to do it with out the machinine but I can’t make it work :compsmash
If you like runs you will like dc92,it is a nice clear but not real user friendly and kind of finicky.
When I have help I can do about 8-10 jobs when I have 2 booths,water has slowed us down a bit.Most times I average 3-5 but I do all my own masking and prepping of my blend panels,blowing tacking,mixing,gun cleaning,booth maintenece etc.We have 2 booths and another painter,so I only have one booth to use and sometimes out in the shop.The other painter I work with is blindingly fast,I have never seen anyone faster,I am too picky and it slows me down somedays.I have sprayed 4 completes in one day,that is my record and man was I tired :blink:
Good for you Lild,that is a great thing to do for your family,I like those suburbusses,maybe later on down the road you could install a HT 383 crate engine from the general 😉
Hey Ryan what epoxy are you using?
Lild keep in mind waterborne has been in use in Europe since 94.The sikkens system I have been using has been around that long and ICI Aquabase is a company that ppg bought(now called nexa aquabase plus,where envirobase came from)has also been used since that time,no bugs to be worked out.
Sikkens says no to etch primer,unless I seal over it,and as far as a 1K primer..no way I have seen what happens,the waterborne will eat into it and it will fail,peeling,mapping,die off etc.Ah man I’m glad I have’nt had supper yet :sick: :sick:
Thanks for the tips captain obvious :clappy My point is with a real premium paint system you don’t have to tint every color and the variants are accurate.I do a sprayout when I edge parts before the car is in the booth,that way I know the color is right.Nothing wosre than trying to get a match at 4:30 on Friday afternoon and the car has to go at 5:00 :S .So for the guys that paint everyday tell me if you tint on every color??There is a difference between a blendable match and a butt match :stoned I may not be a real painter but I don’t send out mismatched jobs either 😉
Supposedly they are currently shipping to the states ,my supplier should have them by early to mid December,$600 retail for non- digital with no pot,I’m thinking I can beat em down some on the price :deadhorse :rock
I used diamont for a year and a half,mixed it 2:1: 10% bch2,I found coverage was not great but not bad usually 3-4 coats, with dark greens and blues being the worst,also any gold color was a sh!ty match.Back in the early 80’s when it was new it was not a bad system,but today it is behind the times IMO compared to premium solvent systems.Limco low voc bc sounds like omni low voc bc :sick: I would like to know who is going to pay you for tinting every color?? Sounds like a pain to me.
Mirka is a decent paper that is reasonably priced(the gold velcro high end),norton is good in my book.What many people don’t know is that carborundum abrasives is the same as norton(both owned by saint gobain abrasives)carbo is also less money for the exact same sand paper only a different color.The old 3m gold was a decent paper and the 3m purple is pretty nice for orbital paper but the long skinnies for body work suck.IMO carbo is the best bang for the buck,and it will outlast 3m.
Ryan is bang on :clappy One other thing if the color is wrong you are not going to blend it,look for a lighter variant,on this color in sikkens I bet there would be at least 4 to choose from. Once you have the right variant blend it and send it or spend countless wasted hrs on a butt match.
Well I would do a sprayout card of the color in question first and see how it looks,you also must spray the same clear on your sprayout not cheap spraybomb stuff.This has been covered many times,95% of bumper covers from oem never match,they are always off slightly,have a look at the bumper you didn’t paint and you will see a mismatch.When I do a tricky color the first thing I do is bring out my variant decks and a 3m sungun to find the closest match,do a sprayout,tint to blend,etc.You do not have to sand down your bumper cover to re-do,if it is new paint and only been repainted once.A simple wet scuff with 600 wet,gray scotchbrite,or blend prep and you will be fine.If the color is still giving you fits and it is blendable kick into the fenders and clear.Color matching can be tricky and in this day and age it is difficult to achieve a butt match :chair I use Sikkens Autowave and very rarely have a problem with colormatch from audi to yugo :stoned