Jayson Munro
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Think about it for a second,its a urethane product basically the same as clear but it has pigment added.I have many single stage jobs out there that are over 20 yeas old and they still look good.
I have used enough hvlp guns to last me a lifetime ,the last one I used was a nr3000 with a 1.4HC (made specific for sikkens autowave) and I hated it.I bought a tekna with a 1.4 and a 7e7 air cap and it sprays waterborne much better than the sata,no comparison IMO.I also have a prolite but prefer the older tekna for WB IMO.Sikkens does recommend a 1.4 for AW anything smaller will be a struggle IMO.I have also used RP’s for waterborne and they work well also,hvlp is out of date compared to low pressure/high efficiency guns.
I can understand using matte clear on claddings or bumpers to match oem,but when it comes to flat/satin/semigloss black I prefer single stage with matting agent.It works much faster and more accurate for old Gm/ford/chrysler muscle car restorations.Think about 4-5 laps with base and matt clear or 2 coats with single stage,easier to keep clean and it will dry faster to be out of dust quicker…… :stoned
I have never used spies ,but when I used basf you could use over reduced ready to spray clear as a wetbed for blending.We always went 100-150% but I have seen some spies tds that recommend 300%,check you tds.
Jeremy B has a prospray system in his shop,Im sure he could answer your questions.
Welcome to the site :cheers
There are a couple of ways,you can use plastik honey http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=15
or use a pourable putty like metal glaze http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=1
Just add it to your filler and mix it to the consistency that you want before you add the hardener.
This is the filler we use at the shop,it is new on the market and have been very impressed with it,I was not an evercoat fan before I tried this stuff http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=330I would strip off all of your paint whether its lacquer or whatever,no point in doing it over an unknown substrate.As far as your aftermarket panels electro deposit primer is not as safe as it used to be,most oem stuff is pretty good but aftermarket parts should be stripped with 80 on a da.On many aftermarket parts for restos I have seen small amounts of corrosion under the primer.You can chemical strip use the old knuckle duster da or a makita polisher or big air grinder with an 8inch pad with 80-40 grit at low speed to strip the paint,then go over it with a da and 80,your now ready for metal work.I prefer filler over bare metal but over epoxy is ok too,just not my thing as I have tried it.I’ll stop there that is plenty for now.
Welcome to the site :cheers You came to the right place for tech talk there are many members here who will help you.I am also a team chevelle member and offer advice in the paint forum my handle is crazy canuck.You will be fine doing your filler work on bare metal after the panel has been sanded with 80grit you can apply your filler.Finish your filler in 120-180 apply one good coat of epoxy and wait the minimum flash or overnight to apply 3-4 coats of 2k urethane high build primer.Next you can long board your primer with 180 put on 3 more coats of 2k,block with 400,seal and paint.You can save some money by using omni epoxy and urethane primers and deltron base and clear for the topcoat.Many people have done that with no issues to save a buck.I will walk you through your project if you need the help one question at a time if need be :cheers
[quote=”Kevmcg7″ post=34823]I just bought the same gun recently and there is no need for the your fluid to be fully open try it at only two turns out, works like a dream[/quote]
Sata recommends their guns be run wide open for best results,if thats too muchand you need to turn in the fluid, get a smaller tip. I run my rp’s wide open for clear with no issues :stoned
If you are dead set against WB I would look at the low voc solvent from basf(onyx solvent) or dupont cromax mosaic.From what I have heard they seem to be pretty good systems with good color match and user friendly.I have not had a chance to spray either one so check it out for yourself.
This has been discussed here before and the general consensus is its not a very good product and color match is non existent. It is also extremely difficult to blend because it is so thick.The answer is not adding more reducer,if you do it will make coverage challenging and adding voc to the mix,pointless IMO.
As long as the shop jobcosts the materials properly a paint systems cost is irrelevant.In todays paintshop you get what you pay for with paint,a good system that is easy to use and has a good colormatch will make you money.
It depends how picky you are if its possible or not :stoned If you mix up enough paint to do everything at once,lay out the parts like they will hang on the car,keep track of your air pressure when spraying base and use excellent technique.YES IT IS POSSIBLE :dnc I do it all the time with metallics,pearls,tri-stages :pcorn:
If your going to all that work sanding and polishing on door jambs just run 2 rows of transition tape.After you apply sealer pull off the first row of transition tape apply base and clear,it will be damn near invisible.Do a little polishing and your good to go,personally I just hard line it :stoned
Welcome to the site lots of info and good guys here to help you if need be :cheers One thing I can think of is to bump up your rp to a 1.4,this will get you around a car much faster than a 1.2 for clear.