Jayson Munro
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Like it has been said before it really depends what kind of clear you are using,HS=more pressure,MS=less pressure.But I wouldn’t want to use anything under 28psi,I think too many people think that paint has to “flow out”to look right when that is just not the case.If you have proper atomization,technique you can make clear look however you want.When you have to depend on “flow”you are adding another variable that can bite you in the ass.I really don’t think that the sata wastes material compared to other guns,and if it did just bill the customer 😉 Seriously it uses less than my devilbiss plus and sata jet90,and it is equivalent to my old rp.
They may be “vintage” but I still use them 😉 You should round up all your grandpa’s old tools and use them Ben 😉
Man I grew up with conventional spray guns(been painting in a production shop since 86)I have a sata jet 90 and painted with one for 10 years,the speed is the same compared to a 3000rp.The fan is 12inches on a 3000 lets be realistic,an nr 2000 is not faster than an rp.As far as envirobase try sikkens autowave and you will find out what is faster.I paint in a shop with 2 downdrafts and 16 bodymen,2painters,I know all about speed :rofl But hey like I said before you can paint however ya like :pcorn:
Nice work Ben,are you a combo guy?Renfrew is a pretty big shop how many bodymen and painters do you have?Is it a nice shop??Thanks for sharing.
If you want to increase your speed you move closer to the panel with a 70% overlap your film build will be alot less=no runs or window framing.That is why you have to move slow,when you turn your fan in your distance to the panel increases and with a 50% overlap your passes will be slower.But hey man you can paint however ya like :pcorn: As far as material output at wide open a 1.4 puts out 10% more than a 1.3,they are the same gun speed wise for me.
Looks good Ryan,nice and smooth.Hey is that 3m yellow tape??We tried a few sleeves and it seemed ok,what do you think about it??I like your booth man,I’m sick of all the grates in ours,hurts my feet by the end of the day :S
It’s all good man :cheer: :welc to the site!!!
Good advice dude but he is using autobase plus solvent system NOT autowave waterborne system 😉
Lookin good Bondoking,that ford cli-Taurus :rofl will at least look normal now 😉
If you have fluid leaking at your spring and fluid knob,TAKE IT BACK,there is a seal in the back of the gun that is faulty.Secondly disregard what lild said,run your fan wide open and your fluid control wide open.Another way is to pull the trigger and turn the fluid knob in until you feel the trigger move slightly,that is perfect.These guns work best at about 3-5 inches from the surface when clearing with a 75% overlap,30-35psi for clear is fine 23 for base is too low,should be at least 28psi for base.Personally I do not like the 1.3 I feel it over atomizes the clear that I use,I prefer a 1.4 and it is plenty fast.You can’t even give that gun a fair evaluation,it will not work 100% with a leaky seal,every gun has a learning curve.If you do lots of large jobs like myself you would be better with a 1.4
You are welcome,I have sprayed sikkens for well over 23 years and everyday for the last 9,I know the system inside and out 😉 Sikkens also makes an extra slow reducer for hot weather,you can mix it 1:1 with slow or use it straight.You can also reduce autobase plus up to 80%(I mixed it 2:1) this will help in extreme temps.If you have any other questions let me know. :welc to the site by the way
I used to spray sikkens autobase,autobase plus,and now I shoot autowave.I always would put down one coat of blending additive(basefix back in the day) on my blend area.I always used a slower reducer to stop the base from drying in the air before it hits the panel when doing a blend,this can cause mottling or haloing.Also for my blend on my last coat I would add a little more slower reducer.I always found that the flash time was the same whether I used fast or slow reducer in my booth.Not many painters know this but the high performance reducers contain a lot of acetone which makes them slower to flash,I found the lesonal reducers worked better and were more like the old 123 reducers.HTH 😉
[b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]Old DuPont Guy wrote:[/b]
[quote]His name is Jeff Holbird. His number is 843-697-0916.Call him,,he will talk to ya.[/quote]
Ya rat. give him a call. He can probably tell you how to paint without ending up in court :rofl :rofl :rofl[/quote]
:rofl :rofl :rofl Rat you just got owned :pcorn:Yes I had to,this car has had a frame off restoration done to it,everything is painted and detailed underneath,nicer than the tops of some “nice” cars.
Re-read my post,I already answered your question,you are making it too complicated.