Jayson Munro
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Welcome aboard by the way.I have been a sikkens painter since 1987 and there waterborne line is very nice.(been in Europe since 1994 all bugs worked out)I used to spray nexa when it was called ICI Autocolor,they had one of the first waterbornes also(aquabase)also a top notch product.I don’t think it matters what one you go with and service will be a big factor.Don’t sign a contract and be cautious of bells and whistles…you will eventually pay for it :unsure:
Deckups blow :whistle: I am really impressed with the norton/carbo cups.We use them in the body dept for primer and sata rps in the paint shop.Keep in mind the ones for water have different strainers.solvent are finer,water are courser,they will work but there is a difference.
It’s not as simple as “giving the insurance compainies a break”they dictate what they will pay for labor to the shops.The whole problem started with the DRP program with insurance companies and the shops.The other problem is if everyone got on the same page there is always some dork hack shop down the street who will undercut all the shops who “banned together” so they can get all the work.Unfortunately this has been a problem for many years,lots of shops have gotten rid of the drp program and the price is what it is.
:welc Nice to have you here Rick :welc This is a great place with a great group of guys,seems to be more pro’s than hobbyists.Enjoy your stay!!
Whatever happened to free speech :unsure: This is being blown out of proportion ,the guy gave bad advice and somebody called him on it,now the site owner has his panties in a wad :wak suck it up and move on.It reminds me of that saying fighting on the internet is like :rofl thats all I’m sayin.I thought bondo and ding were funny though 😛
If you are going to try another clear try sikkens superior 250,it will blow your mind how shiny and easy to spray it is. :woohoo:
Do yourself a favor and do it in ppg concept single stage,for a solid color it will look like a million bucks.Also keep in mind you will use more material if you use cheap paint,so the more you use the more it costs and it is not a bargain in the end.Also check into u-tech ,it is a fleet paint system that has incredible gloss and coverage at a great price,it is owned by akzo nobel(sikkens).
As always very nice work Ryan 😉 I forgot how some people react when they see how strange autowave can look before dry and how wet the first coat is supposed to be.Anyway nice work :cheer:
I’m not bondo but to answer your question the rp works great for a basecoat gun.When I use to spray solvent basecoat it was effortless to spray base,whether it was a metallic,pearl or tri stage.The only drawback was it used a little more material than a hvlp(I don’t pay for it so I don’t care)I have always liked the large fan and the fast working speed of the rp.
The devilbiss plus is ok I have used one for a few years but the rp is made better and will stand up better to everyday spraying.I only use my Plus gun for sealer now.
Looks good Barry,those stencil kits are some times more hassle than they are worth,especially the cheap ones.I bet you can see the light at the end of the tunnel now :rofl
I use a sata rp 3000 with a 1.4 for clear,and also a first gen sata rp with a 1.4.I like the rp for speed and they atomize HS clear coats very well.I don’t mind using hvlp for waterborne but you couldn’t pay me enough to use one for clear,painfully slow :unsure:
Hi Steve,I am in Lethbridge Alberta Canada,a long way from where you are 😛 Anyway Ryan is pretty sharp and has offered you good advice.On difficult colors after you spray on you reduced 666 mixture immediately put on your first coat of color,this will help everything melt in,now let everything flash before your second coat.To answer your question about in the middle of the door yes.I am Leary of using a mini jet,they can change the color a bit.I spray my gun at 27-30psi for color coats and drop down to 22-24psi for control coat.If I am doing a small blend I will keep the pressure the same and just feather the trigger instead of a full pull for a color coats,then do a regular drop coat and fade out but no wrist flip.Control coats/blend need to be at least 12″-16″(I’m about 14-16″) and with autowave the wetter the better.I have used sikkens off and on since 1987 and every day for the last 8 and a half years.We did the 2 day course then changed to autowave,very seamless change but it took a month or so to get in the groove.That was Easter 2009 so almost a year and a half we have been spraying it.The 2 day course will do wonders for you,it will make it easy for you.I went to the training center in Vancouver.Any questions just shoot me a pm.
I use sikkens as well as some lesonal clears in the past.Right now I spray HS+,superior 250,glad AC III is gone for us not compatible with Autowave.If you want a fast gun try a sata rp 3000 with a 1.4 tip at about 32-34psi and about 3-5 inches from the panel,that’s my gun of choice,the old sata rp with a 1.4 is very nice too and I still use mine.Iwatas struggle with a high solids clear and that’s why you have to bump up the pressure.
I used to use a bottom feeder spray gun called an ecco back in the 80’s and 90’s,then a sata jet 90(very fast conventional gravity) then went to the rp.Give it a shot,the rp will lay sikkens or lesonal clears very flat with minimal effort.Need more info,what kind of gun and tip size are you using,what air pressure do you use for blends/drop coat,what is your distance from the panel when doing your drop coat/blend?Are you spraying it wet or dry?what % are you reducing your metallics/pearls?Autowave is similar to solvent that you can add more activator to make it blend easier(up to 50%).I can blend in the middle of a panel and it is perfect.The 2 day autowave course made a huge difference.I am also an old school painter with 25 years experience,if I can make it work flawlessly so can you 😉
This is a great topic,I’m interested in other opinions also.I understand what Mr.kowal is saying,how is an apprentice going to learn anything by only doing a small part of the repair?The apprentice is not learning how to do collision repairs just the tedious part.
When I apprenticed in the mid 80’s I started at a 4 man shop,the owner(wasn’t on the floor very often)a painter,a bodyman,and me the apprentice.Within a year I was able to change panels,had a basic under standing of collision,helped in the paint shop,and painted when the main painter wasn’t there(completes spot ins etc).
This is how an apprenticeship should be,the journeyman mentoring the younger guys so they can be successful in the future.In today’s repair shops there is too much importance placed in numbers and production that a proper high quality repair is sometimes forgotten.I don’t mind teaching apprentices and I have produced a few “good” journeyman in my career.But I don’t think the “team” system is a good idea for anybody.