Jayson Munro
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That’s a good question,in north america I don’t think you can get the old autobase.Old autobase is polyester based,uses more reducer(more voc),requires a drop coat to even out metallics and it can still be tricky.Autobase plus is more of a urethane based like ppg dbc or dupont chromabase,but it covers better,requires less reducer,easier to spray in regards to metallics and pearls.I’m sure i forgot something?I haven’t sprayed autobase since 2003,that’s when we went to autobase plus,last year we went to autowave.HTH 😉
It all depends what kind of gun you are using.For example an old JGA or MBC syphon feed devilbiss you will be 8-12 inches away,sata rp or rp 3000(that’s what I use)I am 3-5 inches away,devilbiss plus 5-6 inches away.Everybody sprays different so there is no right or wrong way,after you have more experience spraying and you are getting the results you want that’s all that matters.
We used to have the all plastic reducer for color build sealer but it has been discontinued.Now it is called all plastic adhesion promoter.You must first mix your color build sealer 3:1 with Elastoactif,then mix your colorbuild E.O.A mixture with colorbuild sealer hardener and all plastic adhesion promoter 100:25:35 #5 mixing stick.The updated version seems to work much better,we have had problems in the past with aftermarket primed bumpers.
That is a very nice set up for a home booth,I bet it will work awesome.You could always build a wall and make it permanent.Thanks for sharing 😉
Hey Barry that looks really good,man I’m jealous of your home shop..looks awesome.Are ya going to use a stencil for the stripes or free hand it??Is that the FC 720 clear on there??
Steve here are a few things you can try if you are getting grainy blends.1.don’t flick your wrist like a solvent blend,keep your gun perpendicular with the panel.2.drop your air pressure from 29-30psi to 22-24psi for drop coat and blends,full trigger pull and increase your distance to 12-14in and slow down.feel your masking paper after your drop coat and it should be wet.3.you can add up to 50% wb activator,do your first 2 coats with 30% reduction then add more,just like slow reducer in a solvent blend.Let us know if this helps. 😉
Your right Joe,he hasn’t…kind of an unfair comparison.I miss the speed of solvent sometimes(ya know how ya can push it sometime :rofl)Autowave is effortless to blend,much easier than solvent….just my 2cents.
“most epoxies aren’t made for bare metal” What the heck are you talking about??? The only epoxy I know that wants an etch primer first is ppg for their dp epoxies that are crap.We paint lots of big rigs that are stripped to bare aluminum and we use epoxy wet on wet.There are many epoxies that can go on bare metal,maybe you need to broaden your horizons and look at some better materials.Personally I would strip one panel at a time with 80 grit do your bodywork on the bare metal,epoxy prime and 2k primer.
You know what I disagree,in this day and age why are you guys panel painting??I know some times I do it but very rarely… solid color or not I will blend,when you are flat rate or not the extra time it takes to go into the next panel is minimal and it will save you time and money.I have used lesonal and sikkens and there is no way in north America that lesonal has a better colormatch.It still baffles me why some people will spend 4 hrs tinting to get a perfect butt match when you can blend it out,tint to blend is my last resort.Just my 2 cents.
Are you blending or trying to butt match?Do you clear your sprayout cards?this can make the color look different if you are not clearing them.I have sprayed that color before but don’t remember having a problem.It is much easier to tint your color to blend as opposed to a butt match.I have been using autowave for over a year now and I have found the color matches much better than autobase plus.Give me some more info maybe I can help,I have been spraying sikkens since 1988 :wak
Why don’t you phone ppg’s 1-800 techline and get it straight from the horses mouth.In my paint line there are some clears that will work over waterborne and some that won’t.It’s not like the old days where you can use whatever you have laying around the shop and it will work.The worst thing that can happen is it will come back with the clear peeling off and you will have to re-do it.And don’t listen to that bull sh&t that the only reason the clear won’t stick is because it was cleared to soon and there was water trapped.Even if you do everything by the book the fact remains that some clears will not stick.
I hope you have a great day!! :birth1 From Jay&Deb
Wow easy those are some very cool hot rods,you do nice work.I’m really diggin the old small block in the gold rod with the oil filler in the manifold,the 3 deuces,vintage fuel block and lines,and the old dual point distributor.That looks like it could be right out of the early 60’s,the white firewall is a nice touch.very cool 😉
The only way it will work in your environment is to heat your shop up to at least 20degrees celcius,and you will need the venturi blowers or at least a couple of box fans to help it flash.Like I have said before it is not like solvent and you need to stop comparing the two or you won’t be successful.It won’t work in your environment the way it is,make the changes and it will work.If your hair dryer didn’t have some type of screen on the intake I’m sure it was blowing crap into your base.
No…that’s why you use the portable venturi blowers and have a warm place to spray preferably a spray booth.In our spray booths autowave flashes just as fast as solvent basecoat.Sounds like you have trash in your base coat, are you straining it or using a disposable cup system with filters installed?Or do you just have a dirty environment?