Jayson Munro
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Cool car,I never get tired of looking at a camaro :wak Thanks for sharing.
Good for you Mo!!!Let us know how you like it :rock
My prices are Canadian too,I’m in southern Alberta.It’s been awhile since I used 4.0 clear but I think it buffed nice,most akzo clears do.You might want to check out some of the dupont(7600) or nason clears(496) they are reasonably priced.Basf has a line called limco,we used a couple gallons of their clear and it was decent.Hope this helps 😉
Dude your jobber is either ripping you off or you are paying more than retail.My cost on any of the lesonal clears is about $130 for a kit,a kit of U-tech 4.0 clear is just over $100.I don’t even pay over $400(under $300) for HS+ premium Sikkens Clear.One really good clear you can look into is the omni 161 high solids,it is reasonably priced.If you are lookin to save money I can understand but if you want a high quality clear you are going to have to pay the price.We spend about $20,000 Plus a month on paint maybe that’s why are prices are good.
Sorry about that,HS+LV is a low voc clearcoat,not to be confused with HS+ clear.Autobase Plus and autoclear 3 work just fine,if you are doing a complete I would use HS+ clear.AC3 mixes with XP hardener and you can change the speed depending on what activator you use,choices are rapid,medium,standard,and a very slow one for hot temps.If you are doing a bumper cover or 2 panels rapid works great,don`t use rapid on a horizontal panel like a hood or roof it can dieback.I had the best luck with autoclear3(ac3)using a first generation sata rp with a 1.4 at 30psi.If you have any questions in regards to the solvent system just ask,there are a few guys on this board who have experience with it.
I have been spraying sikkens off and on since 1988, and everyday for the last 8years,last 9 months has been autowave.There are some other clears that you can use that isn’t common knowledge.If you have a bake booth you can use superior with no problems,it works well in an air dry situation but you need to use accelerator.If you are in a cross draft I would use lesonal pro-air clear,very fast and nice gloss.Lesonal glamor clear also works well,has a nice shine and easy to use.I wouldn’t waste my time with hs+lv ,we used it at the training center and we weren’t that impressed with it.I’ll second Bob’s comments about hs+ very good user friendly clear with a nice look to it.
Color match is very good,alot of times we will paint parts off the vehicle and when installed it is a perfect butt match,9 times out of 10 the standard variant will give you a blendable match.Coverage is also very good most metallics and pearls cover in 2 coats +a control or drop coat,solid white is transparent but with the right sealer it is not a problem. Autowave is easy to spray,and blends beautifully.As long as you have good airflow in your booth it is just as fast if not faster than solvent.I have seen the new mixit pro computer mixing program and it should be out for everyone by mid 2010.I think it is a very solid system,but you will have to try it yourself,take the course and keep an open mind and you will like it.The nice thing with sikkens autowave is you can sand the base if you get a dirt nib or whatever in a short period of time,try that with 90 line.If you have any questions let me know.Get yourself an 8 inch variable speed polisher with a 8 inch feather edge pad on it.Then get some 8 inch 80 or 40 grit disks and run that polisher at about 1000rpm and take your time.When you are down to metal just go over it with your da and 80 grit to clean it up and prepare for body work,you can strip a car in a day doing it this way.No need to save your factory primer,after 3 plus paint jobs its safer to go down to bare metal and faster too.You are in Lethbridge right?Go to Offshore auto body supply and ask for Randy or Chris,they will treat you right,tell them Jayson from Kustom sent you 😉
yes,we did a warranty on an eagle international highway tractor.The back panel and side panel of the cab had to be changed due to corrosion.These are glued and riveted in place and are a big job to change.To make a long story short we were told to use an etch primer on bare aluminum,so it was given a coat before the rivets went in to hold on the panel.Anyway we were given the wrong primer and had some peeling.We called our rep and we were paid to do the job over to the tune of $8000,no problems,no complaining,end of story.That is why I speak so highly of akzo nobel,we have been spraying sikkens in our shop since 1987 and they take good care of us.I would also like to add that we have only had a few warranty problems in the past 22 years.
I’ll just throw this out there about the haloing on blends.If you reduce 666 binder 10% and use it as a wet bed blend you will not have any haloing,also put your first coat of base on before your wet bed flashes.Secondly do not flick your wrist like you would doing a solvent blend,do your blend when you do your drop coat(control coat)and keep your gun from arcing on the blend.If you use autowave exactly like they tell you at the training center during the certification course it performs flawlessly and it is easy to work with.As rushing your clear with waterborne it will blush something fierce,just like the lacquer days.We have been using autowave for 9 months and we have had no problems.The 2 day training course in vancouver was worth its weight in gold.If you played with envirobase for a bit longer you would get the bugs worked out.
Those are really good answers guys,I have tried every method and the best one I have found is called the ezedger(www.ezedger.com).This contraption will take a roll of 3/4 inch tape and hold it like a masking machine,when you pull off a length of tape it will automatically fold over the edge to whatever size flap you want.It only cost me about $60 and it works better than anything I have ever tried.I only use it on newer cars or a high dollar resto,not the regular production crap.
That’s my point if you get the gun for half price say $300,then another $200 for a nozzle set (could be less)you are almost at the price of buying a new gun with the tip you want.Not much of a deal in my book.I can buy a nr3000 with a 1.4hc non digital for $450cdn from my jobber but it lists for close to $600.The used gun would have to be less than $300 to even consider buying it if it wasn’t the size you want.
I use a nr 3000 with a 1.4HC and I spray sikkens autowave,it sprays very nice.From what I have heard talking to other painters onyx is very similar to 90line,the guys I know are using a cvi with a 1.4.Depending where you are you will spend $200 or more for a nozzle set for the sata,so it might not be a good deal.
Can someone explain to me why Iwata can’t make one air cap that can spray everything well? Sata and devilbiss can spray base clear or candies etc with one air cap,for what you pay for an Iwata(same or more than a sata in my area)then you have to buy 2 more air caps,it sounds like a marketing scam.I did try an iwata lph 400lv and I did not like it,to be fair I didn’t try the w-400,I’m sure it would fit my style better.
Very nice work!! Welcome to the forum :welc
Hi bob,we have been using autowave for 8 months at our shop with no problems at all.We have 2 downdraft booths and paint anywhere form 6-10 jobs a day.Do you have any specific questions about spraying technique or clear coat choices?If you have any questions maybe I can help.