james caruso
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i use it in my booth on the walls, not the floor. now prior to this i was powerwashing the booth, using paper on the floor and coating the walls with a tacky booth coating. that all worked great. i switched to the 3m stuff and i will say this, its expensive initally but it actually turns out to be sooooo much cheaper in the long run its not funny and it works just as well. now i can clean the booth in a fraction of the time because i dont have to powerwash it, wit for it to dry and apply the booth coating. they tell you it lasts 3 months. i have had mine on my booth walls now for atleast a year. its finally about due to be changed. when i sweep the floor i just take a fairly clean broom and brush the walls off. the stuff thats trapped brushes off fairily easy and your good to go. i still put booth paper down on the floor and that gets changed with the filters. i like the floor to be nice and clean each booth cleaning. to change the 3m stuff on the floor every time would get extremely expensive. i have heard they were comming out with it in wide rolls for the floor. i have still not tried ryan’s carpeting for the floor. i’ve looked around but cant find it wide enough to do my floor. homedepot and lowes here only have it 12ft wide and i dont want to seam it. if i could find it i would be all over that as it seems like it would be just like the dirt trap system.
Yeah i dont agree with that at all. If you have the right procedure for your sanding and buffing you will tegain 100% of the clarity.
ahhh no. while the trigger brush is great for what its for your not going to actually airbrush with it. its for laying down color in large areas and thats it.
nice stuff :rock
the eclipse model that artspray linked are great and would be the next step up from the revolution. a little more precision feel and detail. you cant go wrong with either one, just depends on how much you want to spend on it. with either one though you want to get the cs model. thats the gravity feed with cup on top.
we pretty much use iwata here in the shop. something in the iwata lineup that is good all around and inexpensive is the revolution. good for day to day stuff, lettering, drop shadowing, stuff without superfine detail. good one to learn on and get the feel for it.
welcome
i agree, mike learn’s videos are really good and his website is loaded with good info.
there are alot of good videos out there. airbrush acion magazine makes many of them but there are also alot of others as well. even when i was beginning the best thing was just getting out there and trying different things. you can watch tons of videos but is expierence that really matters. trial and error. finding what works and what doesn’t. you will find you cant rely on tech sheets most of the time as most of that stuff goes totally out the window when doing custom work and they are written for bodyshops not custom paint shops. they should be a general guide and not be the all written rule or show the limits of the products you are using. know your products and what you can do with them. as i said that in itself will take time and just messing around with different stuff. i will say this as well. dont get caught up in all those special effect type stuff, chamelion, temp paint, etc. basically most of the stuff you see on the alsa website. cool doesn’t come in a can.
if your using the 22 line then forget all the different blacks and toners, etc. just you or your jobber mix a paint formula for the toyota black ryan mentioned. the toyota black seems to be the black the paint companies try to copy when making their factory pack blacks because its just a deep jet black. the blackest black wont usually be a straight black off the bank. it will usually have a small shot of blue in it. another way to go is get black house of kolor single stage. their black is the blackest black i have found.
my normal procedure would be like action said except i always clear twice. i’ll build up the clear over the flake, usually 4-5 coats of a good high solids clear. next day or two i will cut it flat with 400g and leave it open like that to shrink back for a few more days and then final clear it, cut buff. for mini or micro flake i will use a good intercoat for a binder of the flake (not sg100). anything larger i use clearcoat just for added strength.
im a cat guy myself. sorry for the loss nex!!
The blushing will happen with any brand or type of paint. That is from using too fast a reducer for the humidity level. Basecoat itself wont lift or wrinkle. Thats ay paint film undrneath being attacked by the solvents in the base.
overall diamont is a very easy paint to spray and use. covers pretty well. 95% are 2-3 coats. good metallic control, flashes quickly. the reducers are on the hot side. me being a custom painter i dont do a whole lot of matching but the colors i have matched pretty good. i really like their color chip/formula system. i am using the colormax 2 and the amount of chips is pretty extensive. nothing i can really think of to tell you that you need to watch out for that hasn’t already been said. always good to activate the base. its a bit higher in polyester than some others.
jay, i believe thats the stuff. its been a long time since i have seen the can. i just buy the rm stuff which is exactly the same stuff. yes, anything uncatalyzed it will bite into. i guess you could say its solvent but not your traditional solvent based cleaner. its not waterbased either. i think its mostly alcohol. whatever it is it really works well.