james caruso
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I think its the bumpers that are sprayed with the waterborne primers. Anything catalyzed i have not had a problem with. I really like the stuff and use it all the time.
since you have sikkens in your area, try the antistatic cleaner. its an alcohol based final wipe. you can sub for your waterborne stuff. its extremely fast, super strong and flashes completely. it basically does what a solvent and waterbased cleaner does all in one. you cant wipe basecoat itself down with it though…not that you should need to. the stuff is actually made by henkel and akzo relabels it. rm has it as well. same stuff but relabeled and called 903.
Ha, yeah you never hear someone say “well i think i have too much air. Should have bought smaller”
if this is infact flourescent we are talking about then ryan is right, they always go over a pure white base. you dont want a colored sealer. they need the bright white to look right. they dont cover well and fade really quick in the sun. i have only used hok’s and sem’s. sem’s comes in liquid pigment form and is mixed into a clear binder. hok’s is a straight basecoat. they do not completely cover. 3-4 coats and its done. not sure about the brand you are using. if your base isn’t pure solid white with no irregular color then you should not have to cover anything only reach a decent blue color. if you have areas not fully covered in the white dont expect to correct that with flourescent. the color will never even out.
came out real nice. yeah it would be ashame and more of a pia to leave out the other doors.
i have a 7.5hp 2stage myself. going on 4 years now. its a great unit, built really heavy. only complaint i have on it is the plumbing. all the ball valves, etc are really cheap low quality. that is easy to fix though. i also have one of their ref air dryers. great unit as well and a hell of a lot cheaper than most. needed and electronic timed auto drain though just like on the compressor. those bowl types suck.
stone its still don’t the same way but the days of the urethane type candies are fading away. most are no longer mixed into clearcoat, they are mixed into clear basecoat. adding solid colors and toners into a clear medium, clearcoat or clear base is not a real candy and does not work. a real candy is dye based and has no actual pigments which makes it totally transparent. if you are using glasurit you do know that basf has their own candy line right? the carizzma colors. its distributed under the rm name but i would think you can get that no problem. you should ask your jobber.
i hate to say it but for a cheap paint, kirker urethane ss. its durable and looks ok. i would not recommend it to anyone doing anything really nice but for your application it would be perfect. i think its only about $35 a gallon.
looks good. you gonna sand it smooth and clear again or leave it as is?
the transtar no mix is not really made by transtar. its made in australia and i cant remember the paint company off the top of my head. of the people i know who have used the no mix it has gotten good reviews from all but i have not used it myself.
tank looks good. the lighting in your booth looks amazing.:lol1
some of the higher end booth recirculate on their bake cycle but thats it. other than that a booth exhausts 100% of its air. airflow through the booth should be from 75-125 feet per minute. this is why a downdraft needs bigger more powerful fans. my cross draft moves about 14000 cfm. while a booth is running your shop heat will never keep up with any kind of booth. most have 1.5million or more btu heaters. floor heat would be a great supplement though especially when the fan is off.
not sure how much bare metal is showing but you can probably get away with just a couple coats of a good epoxy primer over the whole car, block it with 400 and apply your single stage. 600 would be fine for a metallic basecoat but a black ss 400 will work just fine, be faster and get the car flatter. no need to wetsand before the epoxy. the 150 scratches are fine. if you don’t have alot of metal spots then you can hit just those with epoxy or a self etching primer then apply a 2k urethane primer over and block that the same way.
Not really, as long as you use a quality clear you will be fine. Stay away from economy or low end junk.
giving stuff out for samples and discounts, free guns and whatever else is all advertising. advertising cost money so a company has to feel that the dollars they are spending with you on this is going to pay in the long run for them. 1 car aint going to cut it or pay their bills. most large paint companies need large shops who spend hundreds of thousands a year. thats the customers they need to get not the couple guys who decide to use their paint because they saw it on a car at a show. also all the money for that free stuff and discounts have to come from somewhere. why do you think it cost $800 for a gallon of red that cost about $5 to make. nothing is free and everyone pays for it in the end.