james caruso
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jay, i have never tried the old 250 so only thing i can go by is this new stuff. like i said i have no idea if its the same or they made changes other than mix ratio. i have not tried accelerator in it yet. i’m sure it would help. really, to be honest i like the fact that it is slower. flows out nice. i’ll see if i can get some pics up of the booth later this evening.
joe, that is true i have to use foam on bike parts simply for the control. wool is impossible. cars i compound with wool. maybe i am just used to the spi universal clear which almost buffs itself. 😉 . you probably just need to nail down the right buffing system for that clear and i’ll shine up easily. you guys play with it every day and probably have the right system all worked out, or this clear i have is just different.
i agree, you would think the info would be universal. everyone should be on the same page. i do know his harley has been done for a few years now over solvent base and still looks great. i have painted a ton of small parts so far with this stuff all over solvent with no issues. other than that i have no answers for any of you guys. i dont use much sikkens stuff, just the random product that is dropped of here to me. i can say of the product i have used they have all been good. i have had no issues with the 250 and airdry. it does dry fine but i personally think its a little slow. i dont really have a ton of airflow to pull the solvents out either. im just in a cross flow booth thats at 60-65 deg this time of year. obviously its going to harden up faster if baked. i have no idea if this acts different than the original stuff.
i just talked to my neighbor who gave me the clear. ok according to him, the clear is already out and is available but might not be through every jobber….yet. i guess it will filter through their network sooner or later. both the new and old stuff is considered one of their scratch resistant clears and contains silicon oxide which is why its so hard to buff out. can be used air dry but its very slow. works much better as a baking clear. this is also why i can fingernail it 2-3 days later this time of year. now as far as the waterborne thing is concerned, both this and the original 250, here atleast, is sold to shops who use solvent all day long. it was designed to work over water but no reason you cant use it over solvent at all. they have tons of shops that have been using it over solvent on a daily basis since they came out with the stuff and he has never seen a single delam issue. seems to be the opposite of what you guys have heard but then again he has worked for the company for 27 years and teaches at their training center so who knows. don’t kill the messenger, i am just relaying what i was told.
for anyone interested, you can take the class and get your certificate online from 3m’s website. here is the link. its at the bottom of the page.
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MAutomotive/Aftermarket/Products/Featured_Products/PPS/
#1, you need to catalyze your base. this helps with this big time. #2, yes the sealant is novalac epoxy. you can get it in single use packets specifically for what you are doing. the brand name of the packets is called lip seal. i get novalac epoxy in quarts for lining fuel tanks so i’m not sure where you can get the packets. try http://www.innate.com
cant you buy new replacement nuts or even get the nice billet ones you have in the pic? i would think they would be available and would have to be cheaper than buying all the chrome stuff and the work involved in refinishing them.
thats gotta be one of the goofiest things i’ve heard but who knows…..maybe.:unsure:
[quote=”MoCoke” post=18446]well…. it does say cox custom cars on the tailgate ;)[/quote]
:rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :clappynice, glad the new job is working out for you. changing jobs can be a risky thing.
they look great. what did you end up doing with that nut in the middle?
i never get tired of seeing pictures of your shop. sweet!
[quote=”ding” post=17887][quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=17886]You lucky bastard, that’s test material! It isn’t out yet. I have heard about it though.[/quote]
dont know how lucky he is. he said it sucked :rofl :rofl :rofl
well compared to SPI that is :pcorn:[/quote]:rofl ding you really like to keep that fire burnin!! i said no such thing. i said it sucked to buff!! well atleast that picture cleared up a bunch of things. i guess it was worth freezin my nuts off for a few minutes anyway.
ok here you go. ben it says real small on the back of the can that its 2.0voc. not sure if your guys labels look like this or not. ones i saw online had a red stripe around the top not yellow. i looked all over the label and it says nothing about waterborne. btw, i just ran down the road, in the snow in my sweats and a t-shirt to get this pic and look this *** up!!
alright you guys are freakin me out!!
no man, if you guys are using the 3:2:1 stuff we are talking about 2 different clears but they are both the superior 250. it says superior 250 right on the label. hardener has a red cap clear has a blue. i am guessing color coded for the mixing unit. maybe they simply are reformulating it in a easier ratio to work in the machine and maybe they made it compatiable with solvent or water, i am just guessing their reasons, who knows really. the stuff i have here i was told is their new reformulated version. hell, for all i know its not even released yet. maybe he chose me as a gunnea pig!:whistle: next time you guys talk to your sikkens rep ask if they know anything about it. when you guys eventually see this stuff, after this thread i would be interested in seeing how you guys like new vs old and what the differences are. maybe i’ll see if i can get jeff on his cell tomorrow and get the full scoop. i am really not too familiar with any akzo products other than what he drops off to me once in a while to try out so the info i can offer is a bit limited.
