james caruso
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ahh yes that is apparently the old stuff. i guess what i have here is the new reformulated stuff. i guess you will see it sooner or later. apparently they designed some fancy mixing/dispensing system for it as well. being 2:1 this thing pumps the clear and activator up through hoses in the 2:1 rato and mixes it. your supposed to just be able to open a valve or put a mixing cup under there and it just squirts out mixed clear. from his description it sounded like a water dispenser on the front of a fridge. kinda goofy but probably nice. this stuff doesn’t say anything about waterborne on the can and i dont have a tech sheet.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=17842]It says right on the can for use on WATERBORNE ONLY.Everyone I have ever talked to from akzo says no,including all the guys at the training center here .
So you are saying that the Euro clear is the same as 250?Isn’t that the cheap clear that was designed for cheaper work,I’m sure that’s what was said on your forum at one time.You must have had a bad batch or mixed it wrong,superior is hard as a rock the next day whether it was baked or air dry,it will not mark,so to soft to polish is not right.I know another sikkens painter who has used euro clear and superior and his opinion was different than yours.I tried a half gallon of the universal clear and I wasn’t a fan,it was to fast for my booth,and trust me I know how to get around a car fast enough to keep it wet,but this stuff was fast even with a 1.4 3000rp wide open.For us up here in canuckville it is well over $200 for a universal kit,takes 3 days to get it and they tell you it is the best ever….but they won’t let you try it.I know I can be a Dik sometimes but I know I’m not the only painter that Barry has rubbed the wrong way………..[/quote]jay i will say you are right on that. one thing about most spi clears is that they are fast as hell. i’ve been breaking barry’s balls about that for some time so now they have finally come out with some very slow activators for the clears. the euro isn’t their economy clear but its reffered to as a bodyshop type clear simply because it performs more like many of the clears from the big names. basically its not really meant for a resto shop who is usually not spraying in a 100k booth. the euro if mixed a 1/2 part reduction is nice, thick, syrup like and is much slower so in a high flow booth you can do something with it. if you reduce it down 1 part or more then obviously you cut the solids down.
keep it open!! thats gotta be one of the slowest clears i have ever used. that stuff stays wet forever and i was using the fast. i would thing if that were true then the faster a clear flashed off dry the more chance it would have for delam. what about all these production clears? surely they would be lpeeling in sheets. not saying your wrong, i really have no idea. that reasoning sounds extremely fishy to me. i can tell you that my neighbor being the sikkens rep and teacher at the training center here sells it to shops using solvent or water, doesn’t matter and he used it on his own harley a few years back which was black solvent base and it still looks great. btw, i know nothing of the history of this clear but when he dropped this off to me he said that it had either just been reformulated or recently done or something. the stuff i am using is a 2:1 mix. speed is set by the clear and only one hardener. is that what all you guys are using? apparently it used to have some type of odd mix ratio or something.
that is an ugly hood and a strange way to stripe the front end but good job on the repair anyway!
sure. is that supposed to be some type of water only clear? my neighbor here uses over solvent almost every day at their training center.:unsure:
well i must say damn!! dont hold back jay:lol1 i think that was every bit of a akzo plug as it was an spi. not sure what the spi cost is for canada. i would imagine though it would have to be more than here in the us. the superior 250 i am told is about $320 a gallon sprayable while the spi euro clear which sprays and looks almost identical to it is $75 a gallon sprayable. i would definately say thats 1/4 the cost. as for the buffing, what i thought was strange was that the 250 was still soft, i could still fingernail it but it still wouldn’t buff. tried it at 12hrs, 24 hrs, 3 days. i could get it there but i had to work the $hit out of it even when i finished it out with 3000 grit. i was warned about the buffing when the suff was dropped off to me. could be the compound i guess. i was using the 3m performance compound. the lesonal universal clear buffed great. funny, most clears that dont buff, the problem is that they are rock hard. dont get me wrong i thought the 250 was an awesome clear. probably the best looking clear i’ve seen out of the gun. i’m just tellin you i can get the same finish out of a gallon of euro. i have sprayed alot of it though so i can really nail the stuff just right.
now according to my neighbor who is the sikkens rep around here, many of the lesonal clear are just relabeled sikkens. he said the cans go down the production line split in half, one side gets a lesonal label one side gets the sikkens. i’m sure this doesn’t apply to every clear but probably some. wouldn’t be the only paint company out there to do something like that. i have used the lesonal universal clear which was really good and my neighbor recently dropped off a couple gallons of the superior 250 for me to try. that is an extremely nice clear as well for those shops that can just spray and send it on its way. i tried buffing it and forget it. i would have better luck buffing the shop floor. with all that said though, the spi clears look just as good and buff like butter at 1/4 the cost.
actually the answer for the virus one is owning a pc instead of a mac. ha.
ha!! ben, have you been spying on me? i thought you were talking about me. thats pretty much how it goes down in my house too.
Yup, that a no go on the 3/32. 3/16 will do pretty much anything you need. i do a ton of finish sanding as well which is what the 3/32 is for and it completely sucks at that as well. i sold my 3/32 a month after i bought it. i talked to our local 3m rep here and he even said they dont recommend them for any of their finish sanding. they are pretty much 3/16 across the board all the way up to 3000 grit. the 5/16 is probably good for a mud hog, stuff like that.
wait, wouldn’t it depend on the bit? some are 118 some are 135 etc.
anything rattle can is usually lacquer. durability with clear over will be improved but not by much. #2, rattle can chrome paints are just super fine silver. the nuts will probably just look worse then they do now and if they dont within a year they will. the closest thing to chrome paint is mirrachrome from alsa or the chrome paint from motostorm. those will give you 95% of a chrome look, more like a polished aluminum. only problem is the stuff aint cheap and you have to coat the part with black singe stage first…. that would be one option. 2, you could get some real fine silver single stage and be done. 3 you could shoot them black which will match the bbs and the bit of black you have on the car. 4, assuming these are for the car in your avatar, you could have some red single stage mixed in your paint code and do them in that. picking up a little body color in the wheels can be a real nice look.
yeah really the key thing here is that when you block you use the hardest, flattest thing you can find and dont start with a super fine grit. 600 is a good place to usually start. i have a small corian block that i use. it will sand completely flat with no ghost image.
again i am not a production guy nor am i using water but that all seems extremely fast to me. maybe i am still in solvent mode i’m not sure but 5-10 minutes flash between coats…you gotta be trapping some sort of solvents there. shrinkage is from one thing, trapped solvents coming out of the paint film. etch primer doesn’t help since its a 1k product and sucks up solvents from anything you put over it.
1500 is coarse and takes some work on cured clears to get them out. if you can get your hands on some 3m 3000 trizact discs you could buzz over the car with that then buffing would be a whole lot easier and probably come out alot better.