james caruso
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i know quite a few guys that just restore vettes and all seal the glass with epoxy before moving on to any kind of building primer. not that you absolutely have to do it. polyester and 2k primer will stick just fine. its just extra measure. i personally used to paint the occasional yacht hull as well and no matter what the paint company was they always made us put epoxy under.
polyprimer sata klc-p 2.5
primer: sata 100b hvlp 1.9
base: lph400 / orange 1.4
clear: sata 3000rp 1.4 / iwata lph400 1.4
touchup guns: lph80 1.0 / sata minijet 3000 1.0yup, just sand them with 600-800 and put 2 coats of clear on them. i do atleast a few sets a week here. they will last for years.
Well I got some more use out of my gun today. Sprayed about a gallon of spi euro clear. I mixed it a little thicker at only 1/2 part reduce and ran the psi at 25. Definitely much better as far as material usage and overspray. Still layed down really good. I guess the universal clear was just to thin for how high I had the pressure. Iwata you have to run at the max for proper atomization. Obviously with this rp you have plenty of room for adjustment.
i really have no idea since i have never used the stuff but it sounds quirky since most candy jobs require more than 4 coats. the stuff is relatively new so i dont know how much feedback you are going to get on it. a couple weeks ago i googled it hoping to find people talking about it on forums but came up with nothing. i figured it would be more like a clear basecoat but from your pictures and saying it needs a cat, i guess its more like a clear.
i dont really know much about it but isn’t it a barrier coat that goes over waterborne base so you can put solvent over it? i have read up on the stuff but thats what i get from everything i have read.
ding, i use this place:
i dont have a machine of anykind. i opted to not have one and pay a little extra for the http://www.authorize.net service where its all done online through their website.
i have had the account with them for a good 7-8 years now. when i set it up i got a really fair rate with them. i have no idea what it is though now, i forget. just rememebr that when shoppong around its like buying a car. most of these places will work the #’s to get your business a bit. they will deal……a little.
i personally love the yellow tape. i have tried many different ones and in the summer here with the 100% humidity its the only one that sticks to itself. its priced reasonably as well. according to the 3m rep the adhesive on it is the exact same as what is on the green tape. the paper is the only thing that is slightly different. i think 3m isn’t selling as much green tape as they should so instead of lowereing the price on the green stuff the yellow is a way to drop the price without admiting that they have been gouging everyone for years.
nice!! i think thats really crazy you use outdoor carpeting in your booth. you would think that the fuzz and drapped dirt would be a real problem. obviously not. i wonder how that would do in my crossflow booth. :unsure: i use white floor paper right now but have been thinking of trying the 3m stuff but of course thats $$$. the carpet might be a cheaper solution. its ashame you cant get it in white!!
ryan, i tend to agree. alot has to do with the clear as well. i have always found spi clears to be on the fast side so they like to go on thick and wet so they flow out. too thin and they dont look as nice. i use the euro, universal and ms clear. i think as time goes on with this gun i am going to find out that the thicker the clear the better its going to work. the thicker it is probably the less overspray and better efficiency as well. 4:1:1 on the euro is great for certain jobs and the iwata but many times i only reduce it 1/2 part and have found that to be the ticket with that clear if you are someone that likes thicker clears. goes on thicker and flows right out like glass. the ms clear is thicker as well so the gun will probably work great on that. universal is a little thinner and that is what i was using and probably why i did better with the psi turned way down.
:welc , did a set of harley tins for a guy a few months ago in melbourne. the shipping and your govt’s taxes to get it in the country ran like $1500. i guess he wanted it pretty badly!!
ok, i dont feel so bad now. 25 with that gun is perfectly reasonable. still lays a nice finish without the overkill of air and overspray. what i did notice is that at 30 psi it did give the clear a very oem look. when i shoot the rp with less psi or my iwata i get a thicker coating that flows and lays out a bit better giving a deeper wetter look. the higher psi, around 30 it puts on a thinner more even coat with a nice factory look to it. i found it to shoot nice pretty much wide open on the fan and fluid as well. just need to get used to the differences i guess and wanted to see how you guys were spraying with it. for clear and base i have sprayed nothing but an lph400 for the past 7 years. thanks for all your guys input!!
i went though that topic and there is no way the 2 guns are even close in transfer. the 2 times i have used my rp the material consumption was not just a little more than the iwata it was a huge difference. in any case i like the gun and overall it sprays nicer i just find the air consumption and how hard it blows to be completely insane. i guess i just have to get used to it or keep running it at 20psi. :lol1
i just got the same gun in a 1.4. i used it for the first time the other day and being an iwata user it takes a little bit to get used to. one, it uses twice the amount of clear as the iwata which of course i dont like. i believe it says to run at 35psi. i dont even know how that is possible. it blows so hard it just doesn’t feel right. i had some smaller parts to shoot some clear on as well and i turned the psi down to 19-20……ahhhh just right. that gun at 19 psi is just what i am used to. the overall i did with it i had it running at 30. the gun is fast and really atomizes. it lays down clear like nothing else but man, my iwata will do the same thing at that kind of psi. i could understand it if it didn’t waste soooo much material. anyway, like most satas its a great gun but those of you that use one regularly, are you really running that kind of psi through it and if so dont you burn an insane amount of material??
sweet, nice job ding!!