james caruso
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i replied to your pm.
sweet!!
looks real good!! i love the masking paper and how everyone in the shop is barefoot..that kills me! :rofl
hok is all factory pack and have a ton of colors and effects. sem as well.
you know i painted my first bike in my inlaws garage like that. one of the colors i mixed in this glo powder. 10 years later, to this day you can walk around in their garage with the lights off and see where you are going. :blink: overspray stuck to everything!!
that velvet silver is probably the same as rm’s ultra flash flake. both basf so its probably same product with 2 different labels. i think the flash flake will come out really close to that but maybe a tad brighter. you could put a few drops of black in it to make it slightly darker then i think you’ll be right on. problem with powdercoat and any of the chrome/shiny colors is they always look lumpy. powdercoat is always thick and it never gives you a real smooth looking surface…atleast not like paint does. the mirrored colored powders just amplify that and tend to look like poo.
:welc
its alot of work and always takes 3 times as long as you think it will. i used to buy houses, remodel and sell them. got tired of that after awhile so i fianlly built my house 3 years ago. put the shop up 2 years ago and now hopefully i’m done. i still find myself doing projects inside so i guess your never actually ever completely done. you definately got more than 3 weeks worth of work left there though.
on the f150’s a few years back didn’t the pinstripe they ran down the side change into flames like that…..i think that idea was already done by oem. there are a ton of different things you can do. go and scan through my gallery at different stuff. it doesn’t have to be a car or truck either. you can get some different ideas off just about any bike and just adapt it over and make it work for you.
the quality and grade of the acrylic resins in it is really the big thing and also the different iso’s in the cat, the uv inhibitors and the type of solvents used in the clear. slower solvents are usually more $$. even if a company uses the best stuff in the world in their clear NONE of them are worth $250-$300 a gallon. your just paying to keep the multi billion corp alive and the check they wrote to the shop down the street to get their system in there. this is why a comapny like spi can make a clear just as good or better than the majors at 1/3 the cost.
well i cant really tell you how much. what you need to do is shoot some test panels to make sure you got your mixture right then decide.
ha, ha, ha!!! welcome!! :exci
ok, first thing, did you remove the filter in the cup of your gun? that will restrict thick primers. make sure the vent hole in your cup cap is open as well. #2 it may need a little reduction esprecially for a 1.7. thats not a real big tip for a high build primer. some thinner primers will work fine through that but thick ones usually need a 1.9 and up. a little reduction will probably make a world of difference. block the car down with 220, add like 15-20% of a good urethane reducer to the primer and hit it again.
yes you mix it into clear basecoat wich is the same as intercoat clear. not sure what paint brand you are using but every comapny has a clear base binder avail. rm’s is bc100 or bc00, ppg i think is dbc500, just ask your jobber. how much pearl shows up depends on how much you mix in and how many coats applied. it will also not show up as well over a metallic as it would a solid color.
ok, couple things, if it were me i would mix the pearl into a clear base/intercoat. you then want to mix in enough pearl into to get the desired effect in 2 coats maybe 3. if just one coat then consistancy might be an issue. your sure to have areas with heavy pearl and other areas where its too light. you can use regular clear if you must, just way overreduce it so you build is much less but basecoat is just much easier to handle for this kind of thing. as far as you decal goes, do whay said and spray silver, mask off, spray blue. every paint is different but i would give more than 45min. let it set a couple hours to be safe. once the blue is on, its up to you. some guys peel right away and some wait. i always prefer to wait. one i’m not working around fresh base,2 i find if you wait the lines are more crisp and #3 i have less chance of peel ups. if you wait then go ahead and wait a couple hours or more. one thing to note here also is the type of decal you use could leave behind some or all of its adhesive on the surface when you pull it. i always cut my stencils from vinyl spray mask which is low tack and doesn’t leave behind any adhesive. if adhesive gets left behind it can be removed with regular mineral spirits without harming the base but wait 24 hours before you start messing with it.