james caruso
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well if the formula requires the bc00 then usually i reduce 10-20% or so, so you pretty much got it right. that bc00 is supposed to be ready to spray but man it always seems so thick to me so i usually just need that shot of reducer. some formulas i have seen will have you use bc100 which then you reduce it as you normally would with the diamont but these formulas are usually not true candies and have pearl or other toners mixed in as well as the dyes. looks good though from the vid.
your not going to tell me that shop is always that spotless are you?
i assume we are talking about the poly primer. you can wetsand it if you want but your using a coarse grit sandpaper so unless you like making a muddy mess then i dont know why you would want to. reason we wetsand is mostly so the paper doesn’t clog up. i was blocking poly primer yeasterday with 120 grit so anywhere from 80-180 works good. after i do my 120 i buzz over it with a da and a soft pad and some 150 to smooth out the scratches before i put my urethane primer over.
a sealer CAN hide some problems BUT #1 you should try and get rid of the problem and not attept to hide it because it can come back and bite you later and #2 you need the right kind of sealer. there are 2 kinds of sealers, primer sealers and the ones that spray more like a clearcoat like rm’s dp31. the primer type are much more forgiving and will hide some problems of a poor prep or area to spray. the glossy resin type should be in a clean booth only as they cant really be denibbed. spi’s for instance is a primer type and would better suit your needs as you can denib and dry sand it in 10 minutes. hok’s is also this way. there are many others as well just be aware of which one you are buying. i always spray a sealer down. helps with adhesion and its a must for what i do because i am always spraying candies and they bleed. spi’s or hok’s might be a good option for you as you can kill 2 birds with one stone and use it for your primer as well as your sealer. its all in the reduction
the clear itself should be fine, its the catalyst that gets weak or goes bad. to find out if the cat is any good just mix up a couple ounce in a cup and let it set overnight. should be hard next morning at room temp.
we were using uv primers and clears at the yacht company i worked for probably 9 years ago. it was a smaller company that was making the stuff. i believe it was chemcraft. for automotive i have never looked into it much. i remember the stuff was cured in seconds. we would spray a door or something, run it through the light table and 10 seconds later on the other side it was rock hard. pretty amazing.
each one will remove a different set of contaminents. i have had some things that i could wipe all day long with solvent type and the rag be perfectly clean when i’m done then go get the waterbased stuff and wipe over the same part and rag comes up black. works the other way around as well.
the cups i was using were plastic polypropolene cups but i guess there was something in the manufacturing of them that was causing problems with the clear.
this is probably a long shot but i’ll throw it out there because i had the same problem a few years ago. finally after months went by i fnally figured it out, it ended up being my mixing cups. i wasn’t using an actual paint mixing cup to mix my clear and whenever i mixed in these cups i had i would get tons of fisheyes and craters. only thing that did it was clearcoat just as what it happening to you.
ooooh, i shot this color not long ago. i didn’t realize it until i looked at the formula. i cant really tell from the pics but what i determined was there was too much blue dye in the formula then you can just put an extra coat or two of the candy to get it darker. that should get it close.
ha!! i just went back and reread and i basically wrote the same thing twice. no, you want to mask the stripe while its assmebled so that everything lines up correctly soooooo, while assembled spray your stripe, mask it off, disassemble and spray the background color and clear.
hey jimmo, let us know what you came up with when you are done.
in almost all situations its easiest to mask the positive so spray the stripe color, mask off and shoot the background. spray the stripe color, assemble the car, lay the stripes out and disassemble for the next color.
possibly. be sure to run your hand across every square inco of every panel in all direction and at different speeds, closely feel the surface. if you feel anything at all then it will need to be taken care of by either filler or a reprime.
well, to make life alittle easier…maybe, if there is another shop near you that you are friendly with that is ppg just have them mix it for you. ppg makes harley’s paint so they have the formulas for it. otherwise harley doesn’t give out their paint codes or formulas at all. also, if you decide to use rm, dont bet for a minute that their colormatches for any of the motorcycles are going to be anywhere in the realm of a match or even close. some do and some are so bad its not even in the same color family. the base color is going to be the biggest factor in the match. candy colors are generally the same from one paint company to the next because all the dyes come from one manufacturer. harley on the other hand ALWAYS likes to modify colors a bit just so a shop cant or has a real difficult time doing a colormatch…not every color but alot of them. for instance if they use a cnady red they will put just a drop of another color to slightly change it. you’ll shoot the candy red thinking thats all it is but never ends up being a perfect match. i have seen harley go so far as to have pigment maufacturers make a custom pigment or effect toner specifically for them which is not available to any paint company. i see this happening more and more on newer models. btw in smartrack there are some harley codes under motorcycles and alot more under fleet. good luck there jimmo!! :exci
i love poly’s as well. doright, the thing to try to do is think of it more like a glaze than a primer. get the epoxy on the metal, do your filler work then polyprime instead of using a glaze, block smooth and go through the regular steps you normally would with urethane primer and so on. i poly prime when a whole panel or car has filler work on it. if its just a dent, ding or small area then regular glaze works fine over my filler.