james caruso
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doesn’t intertape/american tape make one. that might possibly be the one your talking about.
i personally always like to shoot a sealer. it creates much better adhesion and chip resistance.
if you reduce the epoxy sealer so its thin like a sealer should be and not thick primer you should not have to sand it. laying down another full coat of epoxy is not sealing in my book, your just reprimering. spray down a thin reduced coat of epoxy wait 15 min and go right to base. wait overnight, clear it, block it flat with some 400 and clear again. if your using a high solids clear then second round you usually want a slightly thinner clear that stays wet longer. if your a close sprayer back off the panel and extra inch or two as well.
weld an 1/8″ rod down the edge. i weld it down the edge of the jamb and then a little filler to mold it in. i guess you could do it on the door as well, i just have not done it that way. i think its a bit easier working on the body rather than the door but to each his own. i have also seen guys use brake line but i prefer a solid rod.
yup, no denibbing, buffing or waxing. once its sprayed thats it. you got what you got. good thing though is that nibs aren’t as noticable as in a gloss finish but they will still be there if you look.
i believe ford has their code on the driver’s door or jamb.
if your going over fresh paint the solvents in the blanding clear are eating up the feathered out edges like its paint stripper. got to remember your working with solvents here. one layer will always bite into to next…to a point. even on fully cured clear you can have wrinkling issues. best thing to do is lock down the burn through with primer. the primer will kick off a leave you with a little bit of protection/solvent barrier. you can try to spray the blending clear alot lighter using faster reducer. this may work it may not and depend on how sensitive the original clear is and how strong the solvents are in the layers going over it.
hmmm, the 53 ford truck i did last winter had $3500 in materials on it. :unsure:
for each person in the shop you atleast be able to bill $500 for the day just to pay them, some materials, insurance and any other overhead. so this means you would need to pump out about 7-8 cars a day at your price. i just dont understand.
[b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote]I was speaking to someone at a shop the other day that paints a lot of cars and they called barry to see if they could get a gallon of clear to sample. Apparently he wouldn’t send them any to try out.[/quote]i’m sure they could buy a gallon but they dont give free samples if you call them and ask for it. the more free stuff given out the more they have to charge,etc. if there is a local jobber then it would be up to them to decide if they wanted to give a free sample.
:rofl well, its been awhile but ive tried my share of kirker. the clear is the worst crap i’ve ever used. the ss black urethane i used to keep in the shop preflattened for little flat black parts like engine components, etc. works good for that and its cheap. i would never paint anything with it that needs to look really good. for $195 i dont even understand how he is doing it but who can expect anything really good for that price. i dont know of any other ss urethane that is $35 a gallon…or atleast it was when i used it.
:rofl han told me to do it!!
if it were me i would seal it just to help eliminate wrinkling or edge mapping of all the burnthrough spots, especially if its a metallic. spi sealer locks up nice and quick to help with this. 400 hand sanding is a bit too coarse but 400 with a softpad on a da will be finer and ok otherwise 600 if no sealer or hand handing.
kirker urethane….hmmm, crappy but durable and doesn’t look that great at all but for $195 paintjobs its just the ticket and better than acrylic enamel. solvent pops kinda easy.
[b]zarbat007 wrote:[/b]
[quote]Napa stores in Canada that carry paint and bodyshop supply
are called CMAX, and the local CMAX carries only Dupont stuff.
I’m curious to see where Canuck found that clear.[/quote]fyi and not to be like a salesman or anything but if you haven’t tried them, spi does have a couple canadian distributors. just something to look into if your interested.
well just like anything there are companies making junk and companies making decent stuff but all are a little finicky. a friend of mine frequently installs them on newer vettes and the ones he uses are awesome. installs in no time and they hold up really well with no issues. took very little to install them. he can do a set in 4 hours or less. i know there are others though that are nothing but a nighmare. not that i can really tell by the pics but it looks like the ones you got there are very generic or lower end.