james caruso
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if your bodywork is done correctly you should not need more than 3 coats of primer. apply all 3 then sand as usual and apply base and clear. i always use it but use of a sealer is optional. be sure and pick a clear that stays flexible. some clears are hard as a rock and will stress crack on sportbike fairings. i personally use spi but there are others out there.
its just the pic. You really cant go by any pics. Gotta see it in person. you cant get any whiter than pure white. Anything you add to white is going to dirty it to some degree…assuming thats what you are looking for.
Wydir pretty much got it. Sand the deep rash out with 80 then smooth it out with 150-180. A regular 2k urethane primer will work and is all you need except for the metal areas which you will need epoxy or self.etching first. You are fine with a glaze if you need a slight super thin filling anywhere but yamaha fairing are extremely flexible and like rubber so if you need a heavier filling then you will need a flexible type filler. I use 2020 from urethane supply co. No adhesion promoter is necessary on any of the plastics unless your doing accessories like mirrors, etc. I do atleast 50+ sportbikes a year and pretty much have it down to a science.
took the words right out my mouth. i am treading lightly here though. dont want to turn this into on of those never ending which is better threads.
ok for the most purest, brightest white just base everything out in pure white base, no toners then a really light coat of xirillic white pearl over and your done. keep the pearl to a minimum. i attached a pic of a bike i did like that. not that you can really see the color on a computer monitor but it gives you an idea anyway. its nice and sparkly and very pure white.
generally for production work filler will go right on the panel. for resto work, a body is stripped, put into epoxy primer then all work is done over the epoxy. this seals the metal, provides corrosion protection and is a good base for your bodywork during the time it takes to restore the car.
etch primer generally isn’t used on resto work because most resto work needs bodywork. usually complete panels are totally skinned with filler then blocked down to make flat. you cannot put any kind of filler over etch primer so only use it on panels that are going to just require a filler primer and paint.
crushed glass is the way to go!!
Hey nex, nice job
If the primer was put over 80g scratches then its going to shrink. A urethane primer can not be expected to fill an 80 scratch in filler. Usually 150-180 grit or finer is what you want.
Ha, all that about pantone colors and now its just white. Well that keeps it simple
yeah thats what i would do really. just put it in the customer’s hands. pantone is for printing anyway and doesn’t really transfer over to the paint world all that easily so let him deal with it. let me know how it all works out for you.
ding, i use coreldraw x3 and unfortunately it does not normally come with a pantone palette. it has to be bought or downloaded from somewhere and added to the program as a plugin. i dont really know about that since i have never done it. go on ebay and search for “pantone book” there are a couple on there for under $30.
ding, not sure which paint mfg you use. i know basf has pantone formulas in the smartrack software. it is hit or mis though. they have alot of them but not all. i can mix them in diamont so i assume glasurit also. if not you can get a pantone color book. they are not a ton of money. about $75 last i checked. pantone is most widely used in the sign industry and by graphic artists. if you have photoshop on your computer there are color swatches/lbraries on there matched to pantone. you can simply pick the color and be able to see it on your monitor. you would want a pantone solid coated library or color deck.
You are going to need the slowest hardener you can get your hands on. Fast and medium in most cases is going to be way too fast.
