mike
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I think this one should be pretty straight forward….I think
The over spray from the initial blow in doesn’t flow with your next coat. Rather it creates tiny pebbles that creates little air pockets around the pebbles. I see this pretty frequently with primers. Use a slower solvent or paint your blow in areas and follow immediately with a full coat over the normal area.
Mike K
Hey Kant, one thing that I’ve seen throw a colour shift or even a bit of a matching issue is your drop coat or orientation coat or mist coat…your final light coating of paint…the colour tends to match the best to the colormax deck card if your orentation is sprayed over a dry or 90% dried surface. If you spray your orientation over a wet film it tends to throw the colour for a bit of a loop…sometimes anyways…not saying this is the solution to your problems but one of the biggest potential problems I have witnessed.
If your going to try this method be careful that you don’t end up with a ton of sandpiling in your blends (piling of dry overspray), it can be hard bury if your light handed on your clear coat. So I personally let the product dry 80-90% and then drop coat.
90 line is a very workable line…every single company has its strengths and weaknesses and we all know it…its all old hat.
I’m in the process of playing with the Low VOC solvent…and so far its pretty easy… no major hurdles yet…
If your careful with them you can get up to ten or more uses with the acuspray tips, I know guys using them for 15 different jobs before they notice anything in the spray pattern.
IMO primer guns and how you apply your primer is as important as your paint guns…not only for the basic application but the controlled mil thickness for longevity of the primers “hold out”….
I’m a sata guy I like the KLC sata primer gun…its a work horse and the bf100 (I think) but thats an investment for sure.
Kennelly – 2 cents
one thing to keep in mind for CFM flow and maintaining pressures properly is HVLP/hiflow fittings and HVLP/highflow airlines it will drastically increase air flow over conventional lines if that is a constricting factor in air supply and will limit pressure drops during tool usage.
the hvlp’s I’m familiar with are 13.5-15 CFM where an RP is 10-13 CFM both @ 25-30 PSI but make sure you buy a compressor that will service the best airgun you could potentially ever own. Last thing you want to do is buy another compressor.
I’ve been spraying and playing with onyx for a little under two years now and I have been using 3000 and 4000 1.5 HVLP sata’s. the tech sheets changed a little while ago to 1.6….I havn’t tried it yet. We are going to be used as a basf training facility this summer and I’m curious to see what gun they will use while training.
Sometimes I find certain mix’s out of the mixing system are a tad thick. I recommend getting a #4ford viscosity cup and making sure its properly reduced before spraying. it can be reduced 100:60-80 so I tend to like the 80 side.
For blending I like to take wet bed and mix it with tricky colours 50/50 give or take, to make sure its easy to blend
I find my CVI sprays clear better than is does OnyxHD basecoat
530dent – I use 75% water(distilled) and 25% hb020 it works quite nice to remove the basecoat 99% of the way then I do a solvent wash and thorough dry before spraying a new “anything”
Mike K
my snap on DA is my go to DA for everything (except striping) body to detailing I really like it and have been giving it a heavy beating for the past 7 years and she still hums like a dream I broke the muffler on it once but that was my fault and I’m fairly sure that was covered under warranty anyways…but its pretty pricey ….300$ I think but if your an apprentice you get 35-50% off….3M sanders here in ON are about 80$ and they are reasonable.. they feel kinda cheap in my hand though…and the “throw” is important too don’t choose the wrong one 3/16 is my choice Mike K
I’ve used numerous things. Solvent based lines RM – carrizma, Sherwin William – planet color, random toners and mixed off a mixing bank, dyes in clearcoats. Some success with airbrushing waterbased: RM – Onyx HD, Auto Color….I’ve even sprayed spray bombs into a small container and fed them into my airbrush but be careful on how you use those they can bite you if your not careful in your layering. Mike K
I’m not sure about epoxy resins, I’ve always stuck to polyester resin for matting. Make sure your flanges are ATLEAST 5-6 layers thick or more of matting for good reinforcing, the other repairs talked about were generally cosmetic but now your talking structural.
Polyester will stick to polyester perfectly fine… that is the standard for repairs.
Mike K
Tallon, you cannot repair any voids or cracks using any filler methods you need to do a structural repair
well explained said Ben, the only thing I do different is slightly v the back too for a strip or two that I put on first then the backing to hold that and the top in place(If there is access and aslong as its not too big, last thing you want is fiberglass dripping and drooping all over the place) or do one, one day and the other the next (top and bottom repair) I find you you sandwich patch you should NEVER worry about a failed repair.
Mike K
Thanks guys, hmmmm about 25 hours into it….spent the first 6 removing the first attempt at this design from another artist :chair
Mike K
got clear shots coming in a sec
Craig, the reason your hardeners work is because its a catalyst for urethane…it will harden other urethanes…but it will turn it into a different monster all together.
different clearcoats can be miles apart in performance characteristics… sure the high $ stuff is hard to justify but its good product and its part of a paint system that you pay for everything right down to good customer service and product reps and warranties(as much as there worth :blink: )
try out a few different clears and sand them and buff them and recoat them, blend them and bend them to there paintable limits and see whats made of what. You generally get what you pay for.
Urethane technology has come a long way.
for the record mine works fine at home and at work and on my cellphone firefox/IE
Mike K
nothing a little sating black rattle can cant fix
We use a matco one, same model stamped somewhere else. It works well but if $ is an issue you will burn through $ on your wheels because of the higher speed it runs at. Its slightly harder to feather the trigger but its semilow torque…and the wheels are alot thicker so its hard to detail 2 side tape removal with it IMO end up going over it with a razor blade. I used it alot and still prefer my smaller drill with the rubber wheel. NOW! if your going to remove undercoating or seam sealer there is NOTHING like the metal claw setup in your picture!! AMAZING can’t say enough good things about it.
Mike K
