mike
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
I am by no means sold on BASF products BUT! you can tape and spray a second colour aslong as you are not going for OEM warranty paint (putting hardener in the basecoat)which would make it gummy and tough to do any repair on or two tone, in which case yes you would need to clear,sand,remask paint ,reclear.
its solvent in the can, once mixed its a water-convert and then once flashed its back to solvent so once dried you treat it like a solvent for tacking/sanding/masking and so on.
But Jayson I will back up what you said in the other thread with mixing & tricky to repair (with hardener)
[quote=”Jayson M” post=21580]Basf is not a true waterborne,still solvent toners with a waterborne binder,also has to be mixed on a machine twice a day.Slow to dry,hard to repair,not user friendly.
Enviro base has good color match,true waterborne, only needs a couple of shakes before you pour,fast drying,easy to use,good metallic control.I would also put money on ppg being less expensive compared to basf.[/quote]I am by no means saying its the best choice im saying $$ wise its the same because it takes less (of the more expensive toners) for coverage. = the same or cheaper than autowave it would seem
but slower dry times and I personally do not like the clears right now.
Sikkens primers are very nice to use too compared to 90’s
enviro and autowave, we still have autowave the ppg reps came down and ran us in circles so we got rid of them.
Does anyone else spray 90?
but what are your conditions now? was it demo’d at your shop?
Hmmm hmmm its funny you say that sikkens and ppg are cheaper than 90 or even onyx for that matter they are almost identical… we have had two systems in my shop since I was an apprentice starting and we went through both ppg and sikkens and the cost job for job was more expensive because of material cost.
IMO from what I went through, you use less toners to get more coverage with 90 line….cleacoats on the other hand… :chair :chair
it would take twice as much paint to do the same work for ppg if i remember correctly so we went with 90 and sikkens.
The matches at the time without tinting wasn’t fun either for ppg
Dry times are longer but we have beautifully equiped booths with wonderful airflow and drying has never been an issue so I will leave that part in everyone elses hands.
my two cents
I have sprayed 90 line and am about to get it where I work now. What seems to be the problem? slow? do you have blowers to dry the paint? what is the humidity like where you are painting?
Now thats some nice D.O.I. I think I see a nose hair. :clappy
very good video!
Always read your tech sheets or product sheets to find out how to spray and what you need to know about the product…. companies spend oodles of dollars on creating them for us so they can stand behind the product your buying.
Be careful that 3 coats of basecoat is in fact enough for for coverage…you can do a spray out panel and check to see how much it takes to get complete “hiding” the coats depends on a few things but primer colour is a major one and your application of the base is another (how thick your coats). Painters will use spray out cards (black and white coated pieces of cardboard or thick stock paper) and check how many coats it takes to cover that and do the same to the car. Its a good Idea to primer your spray out card the same colour as your primer and between every coat take it in the sunlight and shade and check for 100% coverage.
Coats of clearcoat 2 or 3 if its a family members car and you put runs in it and your not used to working with it (sanding out flaws) 3 coats just so its safe. 2 is enough any day of the week. If its garbage clearcoat…you will get garbage results (UV protection, stone chip resistance)
thats a great match, heck add a few drops of something and you’ll still have a blendable match
Mike K
I just got a new catalogue and its promoting the new 1.4sr for even spraying completes… hah thats a funny thought eh….mini jet spraying a complete
I will stick with my HVLP and RP but its a decent attempt i’m sure it will be a nice gun my 1.0 mini is nice and 1.0 dekor I would rather have another minijet
Mike K
Red scotch brite your edges and 400-600 grit to prep the surface for basecoat. Some people use gold scotch brite (3M brand or grey Norton) to prep edges or entire panels with a paste with slight abrasives in it for clearcoating surface prep or blend preparation. I personally like grey scotch brite on my edges and 800 grit the panel for a blend preparation or clearcoat only preparation. Honestly, many ways will work….1500 might be a little too fine…but if thats all you got…. it will work for clearcoat surface preparation.
Happy spraying!! :cheer: :cheer:
Any RP I’ve ever sprayed has recommended 7-9 inches away or so with any 2000, 3000 or 4000 RP’s and the spray pressure is 29-35 PSI
As far as consumption reasons….the guns a pig…the clear is thin?
5 coats makes me nervous but that’s your call.
I have a good relationship with the SATA guys and heres something that they gave me take a look for yourself…
[attachment]SATA RP.docx[/attachment]
Any RP I’ve ever sprayed has recommended 7-9 inches away or so with any 2000, 3000 or 4000 RP’s and the spray pressure is 29-35 PSI
As far as consumption reasons….the guns a pig…the clear is thin?
5 coats makes me nervous but that’s your call.
there are many ways to solve or prevent the problem with sanding through your tape…
1 be more careful
2 more tape (duct tape is good)
3 take the duct tape and stick it to your shirt first so you kill most of the adhesives strength before you put it on the surface. Then double up
3.A If your sanding through the tape during prep, scotch brite the edges first then carefully DA up to them after and that should reduce your burn through rate
3.B If your sanding through on your bodywork try to move the panel (unbolt the fender and move it out, open the door and latch it so it closes an inch or two out from the other panel.) or put your filler on especially thin around the edge so you don’t need to concentrate your shaping around there as much.As far as people not having much of a clue most of the time…..its your job to inform them…you can’t expect them to know…keep a photo book of your work and show the next customers.
But IMO you should know what your getting yourself into after a few…educate yourself …. find out the ins and outs of rust, and how it works and popular buildup spots and interior insulators that cause rust and how long a repair will in fact last. Unless you replace the panel chances are just beyond where you are welding you will weaken the already rust prone or maybe rusted metal and further shorten its life before you will see pinholes coming through….and maybe coming through on the bondo you extended from your patch…now its your fault….rust is tricky when patching things up.
Thats just my opinion im sure theres lots to add and more tips and hints
Thank you, I actually gave out an assignment to figure out how to spray a metallic single stage on a complete and one of my students handed me a quote from Jason M on here. So here I am!
Mike K