Kevin Campbell
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Kinda difficult to see in the short vid, but have you considered it’s standard flake with either an extra coat of rainbow flake sprayed after the final silver flake or the rainbow mixed in with the silver flake?
I’ve done small parts using Centari reduced with urethane grade reducer and activated with whatever activator you are going to use in your clear coat with good results.
For the most part i don’t think that if it’s stainless that it would be rusting. Stainless steel produces it’s own self healing protective coating when exposed to atmosphere. If you’ve got visible rust then I would think it’s not stainless, but possibly regular steel with chrome plating, or the rust is coming from other parts.
Post some pics, check it with a magnet, some stainless with high chromium content isn’t magnetic.
If you’ve got someone that’ll respray your car and do a decent job for that 1000-1500 price range, jump on it.
You’ll easily spend that much and more acquiring tools and equipment to do it yourself.
Well, my thoughts are that you didn’t sand your primer enough and you are seeing the pitting in the panel and the primer texture.
Did you use a guide coat over your primer?
Freehand sand or using some type of block?
You need a little more bodywork in some spots too.
If you can, it’s always best to spray as long of area as you can. Walking the whole side if possible. This is especially helpful when painting tricoats. Alternately, doing 2 doors, or a door and a quarter should help.
No need to degrease. Just thoroughly blow it off several times using a scotch brite pad so long as the surface hasn’t flash rusted. Then either a DTM Primer, Etch primer then primer filler, or Epoxy primer.
Traditionally, I would have told you to sandblast.
I just recently was introduced to ground glass media blasting.
I wanted to do soda, but when I called my media supplier they turned me onto ground glass. Removes old paint and surface rust, etches the panel, all without warping the panel.
I used a traditional pressure blaster. Worked fine.
You could do a laminate of Silver Hexcel Texalium over your existing part. Similar to Carbon fiber, but fiberglass based, and really close to the color you are looking for.
http://www.sierracomposites.com/silver-texalium-sheets-s/35.htm
You can get it in raw cloth too for really compound curves.
From what I’ve gathered. Most custom painters have a disdain for anything vinyl.
Hot Rod Magazine wrapped a Impala years ago.
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/body/hrdp_0910_custom_vinyl_wrap/index.html
I personally thought it looked poor, and they even acknowledged that the wrap life is 5 years or less. Add in that there’s not much gloss like you can get with a true paint job.
Vinyl’s for floors.
So, Are you trying to say that you want a actual silver carbon fiber, or painted to look like Carbon fiber?
Jim’s right on target.
I’ve heard of booths that recirculate a portion of the air during bake cycle, but I’ve never seen one. I would think that most of the problem with recirculating is that you don’t want to have the solvent vapors being placed back into the inlet stream.
I’ve toyed around in my head with that instead of recirculating the air to have a heat exchanger on the inlet to preheat the air with the exhaust making the inlet rise to some extent using less fuel to acheive a set temperature. Just a thought though.
You didn’t specify they were the intake or the exhaust filters, but here’s my 2 cents worth.
Intake filters should always be pre cut. Less chance of pieces of the filter coming off and into the finished product. Exhaust filters doesn’t really matter as much because any stray fibers “should” be pulled away from the work.As far as sources, I have a local guy that I get my filters from, But he does deal nationally. So far he’s had the best prices as far as I can tell.
http://www.sprayboothfilters.net/
I’ve always looked at it as, If you’ve made a mess, you’ve been busy making money. When you’re done making money then clean up unless you can’t find your stuff. Stall doesn’t look too bad to me.
I’m in the same boat Mocoke, 1 man operation, but can handle most everything. I only sub out windshields, alignments and tires. Half the time the glass guys screw that up too, so I think from now on I’ll be doing that too.