scott m herr
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…Yeah I bought the 4000 hvlp as a knee jerk response to 10 year old nr2000’s on ebay guys were asking 350 dollars for but i guess its a really good gun and they can get it. I only paid 400 dollars for the 4000 hvlp as the dude selling it used it for like a week and and hated it. Funny thing is i can use it for base ok, but I like it better for clear. Its just they are such air hogs and the rps do as good a job for 1/3 the air. If i am spraying Glasurit,, I actually use the 4000 hvlp, as it does save on material and i see zero difference in clear quality-( compared with 4000rp )just slower thats all, and if you push it in and close the fan up Im not sure its even slower at all.
yeah i do agree about the 5000 -it is the best gun ive ever had in my hand for clear-i will be picking up another for base eventually. I also like to rock and roll in the booth and hate making something simple complicated. I have no experience with iwata so kinda talkin out my butt….but seems slow from what ive seen on youtube etc… i should get rid of some of my old guns but i get attached and its like getting rid of granny to me, I still love my RP2 1.4 and use it daily for spi epoxy and 2k urethane sealer. The 4000 hvlp was the first hvlp i bit on since the NR95 which left such a badtaste in my mouth so many years ago. I was pleasantly surprised with the hv30 on the tekna and its become my go to base gun along with another prolite with the te20. I shoot diamont base but am looking at sikkens as we have a new paint jobber that moved in selling it, debeer and valspar. problem is the cost of that system is right up there with glasurit-beautiful paint but wow sticker shock. Have you ever sprayed Metalux? If so what do you think of it?
i agree with the te20 choice jason but in UK they get 1 tip 1 cap so hed have to buy 1 and I just figured hed want to make it work. Can I ask why you dont care for the tekna any more? Even for base? WHAT are you using for base now? Probabably a pair of 5000 rps? I never really fell in love with the 4000 hvlp but i do like hvlp for base. Te20 is great for problem and any/all metalic but i feel it goes through a bunch of material. My set up with the hv30 has never had any trouble with any color. Lastly i have a bunch of like new guns i am considering selling does the site have a venue for that or is it a no no. I feel like the 5000 is a gun i plan on wearing out and finally can let some of my babies go to better homes.
Hi Scoobycarl
The Te10 has a range 0f 20-35 but is a higher pressure lower solids choice. the te20 is 16-26, the hv30 is 20-24. the te10 has the broadest range of psi. I think of it as old school med solids cap. Mottle is usually spraying to wet or not enough pressure or to close. Also wrong reducer Try bumping up/moving back a little or trying the hvlp cap. you gotta atomize that metallics better or she dont orient right.in too much film and clumps together. If you like lower pressure for paint savings cut your material knob in a half turn till it lays right. The teknas are all fabulous base guns i wouldn’t use anything else for base.Sorry cdykstradid not mean to forget you-all you guys who take the time from your own shops to make this place what it is rock-I appreciate everything i learn here.
very nice! Can you post some Ws400 evo stuff when you get a chance? Im intrigued by the idea of not having to deal with all the solvent pop and if the ws400 can help, im there. I know you guys are constrained by factory texture so slick is not a concern but which of the 2 do you feel puts it on the flattest? Ive already been amazed at the quality of the 5000 rp for slick clears and i really have been fighting dumping it on, ie in the winter Im sure I can really do amazing things with it. Lastly-so the base issues with iwata are not a problem anymore? It was my understanding that you needed multiple caps to spray fine vs heavy and pearls. The reason ive ignored them is that i could really do it all with 1 sata if i needed. The teknas are my choice for base because they work so well for it and 1 prolite handles everything and its all included. Ive really concentrated my efforts on the perfect clear gun and i may have to relook at Anest Iwata again. Thanks for taking the time to post RickiBobby-you and Jason Rock.
i appreciate your response. Very interesting-i must have let a preconceived notion about iwata keep me from trying em. Ill be saving my pennys for a new one. Can never have too many spray guns. Thanks again.
i cant speak from experience cause devilbiss and sata are all i ever used, but from youtube videos it seems like the ws 400 is slow. Im very surprised to hear you say the opposite. I use the 1.3 tip precisely to slow the satas down as i feel i run the panel with 1.4 instead of walk it. If i dont use a deliberately fast close arm movt the clear with every sata ive ever used seems to over build and look too fat and urethane wave seems to take over. I would actually like to demo a ws but no one does that for small folks any more. my 4000 rp i would catagorize as slower but that was what it seems they were going for- slow and soft spray to compete with iwata. It needed a 1.4 tip to speed up so i bought both. I am a real gun whore so who knows maybe a ws400 is in my future. Is yours the HD?
what is your opinion of the 5000rp vs the ws 400 now? i know the atomization of the ws is good but for large jobs ive heard its slow? I like sata for the speed as well as atomization.
sorry Jason I see i missed you answered that already. I havent sprayed any 9354 with it yet. Im pretty sure the pop i experienced this week was mostly the cheap clears fault, Im pretty sure a better clear will spray with less issues and maybe even with less psi. The LC4100 drys pretty wicked quick and is damn near impossible to run. I spoke with Barry kives this afternoon about my issues and he seemed to think i might have been hurting myself trying to put a thinner tack coat. i guess it might be counter intuitive but its what i was taught. He claims retarder might help in future but i just mix the clear and hardener with no reducer and it gets me through the heat. Wonder if some supertechs from the south would weigh in on solvent pop fixes for the southern US. Im a buffalo bodyman and havent sprayed enough down here yet.
I think its cuz of the competition between iwata and sata-iwatas are lower pressure ( as though that means they are better or something) for less consumption of material. But…. i use sata cuz they are fast and my arm loves em 20 minutes into a complete. does that superior 250 spray at 32 or 34 ?
from what ive read Jason uses a Sikkens clear thats near 80 percent solid, you might ask him about it. I use metalux 9354 which is in the 60 percent range if im not mistaken-its pretty thick and goes on in1.5 coats. i think its alot like Glasurit (actually im told its basf’s old formula sold to chemspec.) nice stuff for around 220 bucks a setup. My new jobber which is a sikkens/valspar dealer has some valspar im gonna try onsale-wont hold my breath but the reducers ive tried from him are surprisingly good. good thing about running your own show=you get to pick what you spray.
Hi Smooth-are u using the 5000 rp ? More the merrier for this discussion-anything to add? I been using Sata for a long time but this is my 1st week with the 5000.
at what pressure and setting? glad to hear you are liking it better. Im so glad i dont have to match peel like you guys-for me the slicker the better.
As an afterthought -It is personal style really in the end as i like 1.3 for clear no matter what gun brand I choose but some guys hate 1.3 and need that extra fluid so 1.4 works for them. I thinks its all personal preference and what you get used too. The 1.3 slows me down and gives me peel free slick finishes every time.